XO Gallivanting Boy

This is my life. Will it affect yours?

Category: womenswear

SPRING: Gary Bigeni 11/12

label Gary Bigeni
season Spring/Summer 2011/2012 at Rosemount Australia Fashion Week

It seemed that a bit of relative softness wasn’t only reserved for the Lo Sordo show. Gary Bigeni lends me to believe that more than one designer in Australia has caught on to this sort of neo-minimalism trend that has been popping up lately and has decided to run with it. Draped, belted, and powerful with the color, the collection is entirely utilitarian varying from striped tunic dresses to a leather skirt. While things did seem a little fuzzy for a moment with the layering(like the leather jacket, and a few other looks although I did love the leather pieces) Bigeni’s show was a strong one and his voice on Australian fashion is most certainly one to be heard. Bigeni’s sponsor, Spanx must have been pretty pleased as though draped and beautiful the pieces, the wearer would need a pretty fine body for the pieces to hang and look exactly as they were meant to.

source | for tomorrow

SPRING: Michael Lo Sordo 11/12

label Michael Lo Sordo
season Spring 2011/Summer 2012 at Rosemount Australia Fashion Week

Though I did happen to start off my RAFW coverage with a bad review, it most certainly isn’t all bad. Michael Lo Sordo makes a strong, if soft, statement for the week with a collection of looks that while simplistic, are never bland. Utilizing geometric shapes, a keen minimalist eye, a dash of print, and more than his share of chiffon, Sordo creates a collection that leaves more of an impression than anything else, a lasting impression on the viewer wherein the spirit of the collection is found. To be completely honest though, it may have been those ballerina esque knife pleats that enticed me coupled with the long-sleeved, night gown like dress that seemed to ripple off the model. I’m a sucker for femininity, grace, and discipline, and these are the qualities that will be required to pull of any number of these looks.

New Female Model Faces Fall 2011

For some reason my attention wanes when it comes to female models, but then again I see this as a trend when it comes to womenswear versus menswear. For example, if you take a look at the Tumblr trends, when menswear editorials are reblogged it normally is because of the actual model. It’s really about people being a fan of a certain model. When it comes to womenswear, I’ve noticed it’s more about the quality of the image, and the entirety. So the actual wardrobe, the actual shot, and the posing all play into whether the image is reblogged. That’s just something I noticed but regardless I did unearth 3 new female model faces I wanted to present to you guys.

Xiao Wen Ju- There has been an absolute influx of Asian influence for the past few months in the fashion industry. There have been a proliferation of Asian designers as well as notable brands investing in the market, and so it would come as no surprise that there were more Asian faces in the lineups this season. A new face I found was Xiao Wen Ju, who preceded the show circuit with spreads in the Chinese editions of Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue. While she had apparently become a hot commodity in China, it was this season that she was introduced to the rest of the markets of the world. Xiao is represented by IMG in New York.

Colinne Michaelis – I say it time and time again don’t I? There are just some positions on the runway, a select few, that guarantee success! So what happens when a model books more than one of those slots? Well we’ll surely find out this season as Colinne Michaelis of Silent(Paris) walked an exclusive for Calvin Klein in addition to opening Prada. A fresh face, Michaelis has the makings of a supermodel with a slightly boyish and yet oh so feminine luxury appeal. I’ll let her show listing speak for itself.
photo by Brian Keith

Josephine Skyriver– While not her first season( she’s been modeling atleast since Spring 2008), Skyriver has finally stepped onto the international scene. She does so with enough experience that she ends up booking enough shows that she looks like a veteran. Hopefully this precedes a sickening editorial season.

PREFALL: Damir Doma 2011

label Damir Doma
season Pre-Fall 2011

As we look forward to today’s Paris Fashion Week schedule of names like Mugler, Gareth Pugh, and Dries Van Noten, I take a moment to look back at the Pre-Fall 2011 collection for Damir Doma who also will be showing today. If Doma’s latest offerings have any connection to what he will offer up today, we should expect models covered from their neck down in geometric and minimalistic blacks and whites. More than likely, Doma will expand on his use of furs in the full collection, roping in more luxury to the very Yves Saint Laurent(though some times it feels like there’s an undercurrent of Helmut Lang) appeal of the collection. Doma seemed to offer up basics for his own muse for Pre-Fall 2011 and for today’s showing, I expect him to provide her with his take on glamour.

SPRING: Prada Beijing 2011

Miccia Prada really has been outdoing herself for the past couple of seasons. With Prada and the diffusion label Miu Miu, there has seldom been a time since the brand hasn’t been circulating in the fashion blogosphere. Last month was the ad campaign(the video as well as the print ad) and the menswear show, and now we find ourselves looking at footage from the Spring 2011 show that she re staged in Beijing.
Not realizing the importance of China in the luxury market will probably prove fatal to brands. Miuccia shows that she recognizes the importance by pulling up stakes and holding an entire(although tweaked) show including menswear and womenswear in Beijing. While the sentiment of the show held constant, with the baroque motifs, there were tiny additions that interested me. Prints were done in different fabrics, and new pieces (like the man bags which look a tad similar to what just showed for Fall 2011) were shown. Stores will more than likely carry pieces similar to the ones shown in Beijing.

SPRING: Tom Ford Womenswear 2011

We waited, we waited, and we’ve waited some more. Some have fallen off along the way but there are a select group of us that have held on, striving for the end result, struggling to satiate our hunger with the meager scraps left for us here and there, knowing that nothing could really replace what we were searching for but trying to satisfy our hunger anyhow. Well the main course has finally arrive and I present to you the complete imagelist, along with a short video of the Tom Ford Womenswear Spring 2011 collection. Welcome back Father Ford.

Since September I’ve been culling together every bit of information I could about the Tom Ford‘s return to Womenswear. I’ve scoured editorial after editorial, and read credit after credit to see pieces as soon as possible. The result was, besides editorials that were done specifically featuring the collection, a cumberbund here and there. The hard work and dedication did allow me to see what probably amounts to half the collection though before it debuted on TomFord.com. The amount of secrecy, exclusivity and ceremony that surrounded the production probably caused 70 percent of the excitement. Well that, and the fact that while this is Mr. Ford’s return to Womenswear, it will be his last womenswear showing(all future collections will be seen by appointment only).

The pieces that Mr. Ford showed cause many to pause. While his return was touted as him picking up from where he left off, and the production seemed similar, it seemed that many of his audience expected that his design aesthetic wouldn’t be. The Spring collection seemed very Fordian to me: a strong connection to his work at YSL, and traces of what he did at Gucci. Each piece contains a permenancy that is more often than not, absent from the pieces that go down many runways today.

If you’re wondering who all will be wearing Tom Ford Spring 2011 on the red carpet for the Oscars, well it will come down to one name. Mr. Ford said that in attempt to step out of the entire “step and repeat” game, and give his clients the exclusivity they need, want, and deserve, after the nominees are named he will choose one woman, and one woman only. He will approach this woman and offer to dress her for the awards. Let the competition begin.

PREFALL 2011: Black Suits

Models(from left): Julia Saner, Hyoni Kang, Jandra Dziaugyte, Juana BergaLabels: Jason Wu, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Elie Tahari, Jenni Kayne

It is in fact true, the season that we have come to know as Pre-Fall has begun. Well the season hasn’t begun, but show season has. While I have to make apologies for not being around that often I think the best thing to do in this case is to not harp on it and stride along, and into the business that we must attend to for today.

So I wasn’t sure how I wanted to cover Pre-Fall shows. As we approach a new year there of course will be some changes. I’ve decided to do it this way though, in more of a trendier type of way since preseason shows(or presentations which are more common) in general happen to be a bit more commercial than other shows.

As I flicked through the images from the shows, of which up to now have mainly been from New York(most shows from Paris and Milan will show at the end of January and the beginning of February) I continually saw one look with various takes: the black suit. What’s even more interesting is that I saw it with small punches of red(heels on Julia, gloves on Jandra, and hankerchief on Juana). The black suiting made me think back to the black army that Dolce and Gabbana sent down the runway for Fall 2010…

all I can say though ladies is, suit up.

SPRING: Jil Sander Womenswear 2011

Models: Yulia, Jac, Basia, Martha, Nimue
Label: Jil Sander
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear

You all know that the review never starts until you go under the clip so I’m not sure why you expect for me to lapse into it now. I have been feeling sort of bad though seeing as I’ve been lacking a little on posting but I’m just finding myself becoming very enraptured in the blogosphere again, particularly in the forums. I end up writing away there things that I should be writing here. I do still tweet though, regularly, and I find myself utilizing my Tumblr to sort of keep track of certain models and agencies. Also if I think things don’t warrant an entire post here, I’ll put them there. If you guys hold tight though we’ll get back into the swing of things. I do hope you’re enjoying the Model Mondays though. It is a bit of work on my part but I do love learning about agencies and the industry. With all that said though, let’s go ahead and get into the Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear collection.

Models: Hanna Samokhina
Photographer: The Sartorialist
Label: Jil Sander
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear

Watching the Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011 womenswear collection was like biting into a fresh juicy green apple after weeks of only fruit flavored gummies. Nice visual?? I’ve been working on it for a few seconds. That’s really the only way that I can explain it though. We’ve been seeing this minimalism but there’s an undercurrent with it. So many designers seem to want to move in different direction but feel as if at the end of the day we are still in an economic downturn and their garments should reflect that. This latest collection from Jil Sander seems to nod to the economic downturn while keeping it’s eyes on the optimistic future.
With a face bare except for a shock of pink(which was reflected in the soles of some of the heels), and hair pulled back into a bun, this collection seems to scream simplicity. While most were amazed by Raf’s concept to pair a simple t-shirt with the flare of an haute couture garment, I found myself staring at three layered jackets that seemed more streamlined than some sweaters. While I couldn’t help but notice pieces like the orange column(look 32) and pink cloud(look 34), I found myself drawn to a few of the more wearable looks(looks 22, 23, 24, 43, and 44). Even more than those the accessories, like the shades as well as bags were a hit to me.
The Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011 collection was organic to me. It was sublime and organic. From the bags to the soles of the heels I found that the beauty was in the collection’s “loud silence.” Even the color detailing on the backs of the jackets, which was more than likely a holdover from the menswear which should be posted soon, caused me to pause.

Accessories Shot
Photographer: The Sartorialist
Label: Jil Sander
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear

Model: Iris Egbers
Photographer: Sonny
Label: Jil Sander
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear

See the rest of the collection in the galleries.
Opened: Kasia Wrobel
Closed: Daria Strokous

SPRING: Prada Womenswear 2011

Model: Jessica Stam
The Sartorialist
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear

Before I actually begin to discuss the hedonism that was the Prada Spring Summer 2011 Womenswear collection, I would like to get something off of my chest. Blogging womenswear is decidedly alot easier than menswear. Runway that is. Information and resources are light years ahead in womenswear compared to menswear. For example, to find out the casting list for this show, I only had to click through Style.com and I got the models name as well as a short GIF of them actually walking in the show. For menswear, I had to track down a list, which was alphabetized, and then in turn look up every model on said list(if I didn’t know them) to find who exactly they were. I mean, I have no problem with womenswear bloggers, and don’t completely consider myself a “menswear blogger” but I just wanted to make that point.

Now why don’t we get into some bananas, 20’s, color blocking, and good old fashion hedonistic behavior; in other words, the Prada Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear collection.

Shala Monroque(Editor at Large for Pop Magazine)
Jak and Jil
Blouse and Skirt: Prada Spring/Summer 2011
Bracelet: Delfina Delettrez

Always the first one to rock peices from new Prada collections, days after Miuccia Prada showed the Prada Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear collection in the same space she showed the Menswear collection a few months prior, Shala Monroque was spotted by Tommy Ton of Jak and Jil wearing pieces from the collection. The detailed shot of the blouse(Look 26 in the show worn by Hannah Noble) makes evident what the funky designs covering pieces of the collection are: monkeys. Of course and you can’t realistically do a collection featuring monkeys as the cherubs for your work without bananas, now can you? Miuccia even got in on it herself, taking her bow in a small pair of bright yellow banana earrings, which I sadly didn’t catch on any of the model’s ears.

Deciphering a Prada collection is always like attempting to figure out what your mom puts in your favorite dish. There’s just so many things that it could be, so many things that are blatant, but you always have the uncanny feeling that you’ve missed something. In the collection, the monkeys are evident, as are the bananas. Even the flapper-esque fit of some of the dresses, with the fringe adorning the hem is there for all to see, and hear apparently. But is that the depth of the 20’s influence? Only a little fringe, and the flapper fit? Or are those fur stoles supposed to remind us of the Jazz Age with a more modern, hedonistic twist? Are we to look to the stacked boaters and think of decades past and platforms forgotten? Oh and what about that darn sombrero? Although packing a punch in the color department, where exactly did that come from? The bananas maybe? Of course and all of that isn’t even touching on the question of who exactly closes a Spring/Summer show with a black dress?

Accessories Shot
Photographer: Sonny
Label: Prada
Collection: Spring/Summer Womenswear 2011

All in all, while the collection nods to the trends, including a little to minimalism, it’s fully hedonistic. That’s really the only word I can find to describe it. It seems that the Prada woman will have something to celebrate in the Spring/Summer of 2011 and it will include her tall heels no matter what Prada’s CEO, Patrizio Bertelli, has to say or thinks about it. And the only thing I have to say is… I’d have it no other way.

Backstage Shot
Models: Jourdan Dunn(left), and Melodie Monrose(right)
Photographer: Sonny
Label: Prada
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011

See the entire collection in the galleries.

Opened: Arizona Muse
Closed: Arizona Muse
Exclusive: Lynn Amelie Rage

EDITORIAL: Hailey Clauson

Model: Hailey Clauson
Photographer: Alexander Neumann
Publication: Harper’s Bazaar Mexico

I would have to admit that I normally like a little bit of grit with my glamour and that’s exactly what Danny Santiago styles for this editorial for Harper’s Bazaar Mexico. Modeled by Hailey Clauson we find Bottega Venetta and Calvin Klein mashed with(correct me if I’m wrong) Nicholas Kirkwood and Celine. Shot in a studio by Alexander Neumann, the monochromatic editorial is playfully dark and features pieces that the New York woman would(or should) die to get her hands on.