Marc Jacob’s Spring 2011 collection was flawless-modern, pragmatic, and wearable
–Andre Leon Talley
So this issue included small features on the CFDA Finalists and these would have to be my favorite two. As you all know Prabal Gurung(left)was no doubt one of my favorite shows of the Summer/Spring 2011 show season and it just so happens that I didn’t really pay attention to the menswear shows that happened during New York Fashion Week. Because of this Loden Dager(right) almost slipped through the cracks. Thankfully though, the brand did not and has in fact secured a place in my heart… now only if we can transfer that to my closet!
This editorial, shot by Patrick Demarchelier and styled by fashion editor Tonne Goodman, was my favorite of the issue. It was a tough decision, with Grace Coddington‘s two spreads putting up a good fight, but in the end, Sasha Pivovarova won out.
P.S. What are we going to do with feathers for Spring 2011?? I say leave them on the birds!
Undoubtedly one of the more noted fashion industry documentaries, The September Issue shows the inner workings of American Vogue during one of the most demanding times, the makings of their September Issue. Billed as the January of fashion, September is when fall fashion makes it’s debut and really normally sets the tone for the rest of the year. Magazines put out their largest issues during this time so we see here as Anna presides over the fashion bible while interacting with such heavy hitters like Grace Coddington and Andre Leon Talley. Her influence and clout in the industry is palpable as they explain what she has done and we see how other industry personnel such as Thakoon as well as retailers, seem to revere her.
Whereas I don’t have the name of this editorial, I do love it. The color palette, the flowy textures, all of the fabric. I fell completely in love with the editorial in Vogue Italia. Kenzo and Versace are shot on Alana Zimmer by Greg Lotus. The jewelry pieces anchored the very airy editorial. There are no words to describe my love for this particular editorial.
When I saw the schedule, I didn’t recognize the name. Then again, I’m not as into the fashion industry as I would like to think I am, so I did what any respectable apprentice of a craft would do, I began to research him. I found a few articles about ALEXIS MABILLE before eventually happening upon his website and biography. I found the picture above at HIGH SNOBIETY, and decided that it would be a good opening since before this show many pegged ALEXIS MABILLE as the bow tie guy, this Ken doll bow tie, being one of the many he designed.
Mabille’s biography a love of fashion, sparked by museums and attics. As a teenager, young Mabille got his first taste for design when he began creating theatre and party costumes, as well as designing for friends and family. After studying at Paris’ CHAMBRE SYNDICALE, he began partaking in apprenticeships at NINA RICCI and UNGARO before settling at CHRISTIAN DIOR. The nine years spent there created fine jewelry for JOHN GALLIANO and the DIOR HOMME line overseen by HEDI SLIMANE. He told VOGUE “I was an intern at the beginning when I started with Dior and I stayed for nine years because it was a great place to work. It was a crazy time, very fun: everything was open. It taught me that something not very beautiful, something from daily life, can be made amazing. I had a very good relationship with Galliano and with the label, but I felt it was time to follow my own vision,” about the time spent there. Mabille also told VOGUE that he would really love to dress the Queen.
Choosing pictures for this line proved a tad more difficult than for DIOR, but I did it. The following 4 pictures, I found at STYLE, where the entire collection and an accompanying article, can be viewed. Sadly, I couldn’t find the board for the models but that only means we can plunge right into the show!
I bring you this first dress because unlike my friends over at TLo, I like bows on a woman, if placed correctly. Whereas I do believe that there is a better positioning for this particular bow(which I saw by my “Best Dressed” winner’s dress for my prom this year,) I still like the look. It, like most of the collection, is kind of like wearable couture. It’s couture that really and truly, I could see a variety of women wearing.
For this next number, a tasteful sheer concoction, I will give you background. Style reports that Mabille’s story line dictated a girl waking from a night of fitfull sleeping to find herself entangled in her pajamas. Now these are not the flannels, that my family wears but apparently sheer, flowing, and silken pieces. They quote Mabille saying “I wanted it to look loose and casual-fitting, so she can wear things with the attitude of pulling on a T-shirt,” which is what I see in this look. It looks very comfortable and very fluid. To me it seems as if anyone wearing it would have the comfortability of a T-shirt while the look of something much more priceless.
This look, is just that, alot of look. Mabille rolls his many signatures into one look: the sheer fluidity and the bow tie leave me, hours after I saw it for the first time, still trying to decide if I like it or not. My mind wants to say somethings off but, I just can bring myself to say it, especially being a lover of movement like I am. The sheer material seems to create a visual aura around the model, and truthfully I’m still undecided.
Lastly I present you with this, a look that I am decided upon. This chic evening suit with it’s white scalloped edged peacoat Made me actually decide to post. The golden buttons, and what I’m going to bet is a black bow in the back make me smile. The sheer material cum scarf around her neck is an added plus and really and truly I’m not positive what makes the look so right in my eyes. Maybe it’s the clean and chic quality… I don’t know but I do know… I like… I like.
Mr. Mabille himself came out with a small bit of couture on his pants… probably just found it’s way there in all that hard craftsmanship.
I absolutely can’t wait and I’m guessing that you can’t either, so take a gander at the trailer!!
I absolutely love her! One part of me wants to raise itself to her status, because she knows what she’s doing and carries a good bit of clout wherever she goes!