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Category: trends

PRE-FALL: Sheer 2011


Labels: Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Temperly London, Yves Saint Laurent

We again look to Givenchy when we begin to discuss the sheer trend that has been prominent in collections for a few seasons now. Last season the blogs buzzed about Abbey Lee Kershaw‘s street style when she wore a sheer skirt, but the trend been popping up on runways since at the least Spring 2010. Finding the right way to wear the trend is sometimes tricky though, and while some don’t have the legs to bare, designers have been particularly focusing on sheer tops for the season that can be covered with a nice jacket or slipped over another shirt.
Ricardo Tisci is another Miuccia Prada with pushing the fashion industry. You may have read about Givenchy in the past few seasons for a variety of reasons, mainly because of his models: Lea T(a transexual), Stephen Thompson(an albino), or the amount of diverse models on the runway for his Fall 2011 menswear showing. While some say he doesn’t purely for press sake, the fact of the matter is, he’s the only major label, or sometimes just the first, to do it. Because in this industry relevance is key, it doesn’t matter who actually does something first, but it’s who you remember and Tisci sure does have a way of making us all remember.
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PRE-FALL: Floppy Hats 2011


Labels: Derek Lam, Gucci, Pucci, Sonia Rykiel
Season: Pre-Fall 2011

While this trend could really be expanded to full brimmed hats period(which also were a major trend for the Menswear Fall 2011 shows), floppy hats were certainly a trend on the Pre-Fall 2011 collections. Being from the south, means that floppy sun hats are nothing new to me, but since the Spring 2011 collections, where Prada and Marc Jacobs both showed wide full brimmed hats, it seems that designers have taken a renewed interest in the accessory.
The Pucci collection was was the epitome of feminine sex appeal. Peter Dundas, known for creating his sex appeal, has been working on revamping the Pucci label during his tenure there and there are most certainly more than a few winners in this colorful, stand out collection. His talent for making a woman’s body as beautiful as possible is clearly evident, as is his design longevity.
source | style

PRE-FALL: Pink 2011


Labels: Matthew Williamson, No. 21, Proenza Schouler, Valentino

If you ask me, there aren’t many ways to get more feminine than the color pink. For the Pre-Fall 2011 collections we saw alot of feminine tendencies as well as alot of pink. If you don’t believe me, why don’t you review which Oscar de la Renta gown that Jennifer Lawrence just wore on the red carpet of the 2011 SAG awards. If that doesn’t convince you, nor the four looks from above that I pulled(don’t worry we’re going to get into the Proenza boys in a sec hold your horses), I’m not sure what I can do to convince you.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez do it for me every season with Proenza Schouler. I can’t lie, they just do! This season was no different. With a black boot(sometimes open toed) to accompany every look, the collection conveyed a sense of strength to me. The funny thing is, I’m normally not a print type of guy and yet every season I come back to them. I think they lace the collars with some type of highly addictive substance. It doesn’t matter though, hand me that black over sized blazer and I’ll take a deep whiff.
source | style

PRE-FALL: Leather 2011


Labels: Versace, Giambattista Valli, DSquared2, Celine

Blame Celine or Givenchy, take your pick, but leather has taken a hold on the industry and refuses to let up. The number of little black leather skirts on the runway this season probably pushed record numbers. While the little skirts appeared most commonly in shorter versions, the leather came in other pieces as well, even a plunging v-necked, sleeveless top at The Row that’s deceptively casual.
The Celine pre-fall collection was one I was heavily anticipating. The reason being, Phoebe Philo has been pushing the trends for the past few seasons and from the Spring shows it was evident that there’s an undercurrent of something striving to be expressed that was different. For the Celine Pre-Fall 2011 collection Phoebe Philo moved the brand forward, showing that the clean color blocked minimalism isn’t the extent of the aesthetic. It was the patchworked denim and high necks that caught my attention the most though. The strong pieces of outerwear excited me as well and the collection does what any good Pre-Fall collection should, supply customers with a variety of commercial pieces as well as pique my interest for the Fall collection.

PREFALL 2011: Fur


Models(from left): Ksenia Kahnovich, Tara Gil, Julia Saner, Lisanne de Jong
Labels(from left): Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Donna Karan, J Mendel

So pre-fall is a weird season. I mean it is a working season, this is true so many brands make alot of money off of it, but it’s very peculiar. Why, because the name doesn’t really tell you what it’s for. Spring collections are for Spring, Fall collections are for fall. Resort/Cruise collections are for more tropical locales… like resorts and cruises. Maybe I’m wrong but in the 4 seasons I learned in school there was no pre-fall. Because of this, designers treat the season in different ways, and while some show bikinis, others show heavier pieces… like furs.

Carolina Herrera to me always makes beautiful pieces. That’s really the only way I can describe them, as beautiful. The hats from Spring 2011 sent me into convulsions, in only the best of ways of course. While this collection didn’t quite do the same, it has grown on me a since first seeing it, the more voluminous pieces working down my resistance quicker than the rest.

The Oscar de la Renta collection on the other hand, which I was able to catch the livestream of, really was something that I instantly liked. From the first look, which featured the top backwards on the model, all the way through to what I can only describe as the Indian Princess ball gowns, including every bow, and evening jumpsuit in between, I was practically in lust. It may be a bit weird, but I found myself almost frothing at the simplistic luxury found in the look featured above.

Donna Karan showed two collections during her Pre-Fall collection: the first being a new collection entitled “The Casual” and the second being her main Donna Karan collection. Based on her 7 basic pieces, Donna Karan managed to bring something a bit new to her customer, something that I can only explain as… casual. The layering, the furs, the color palette, everything pointed towards this motif and I’d be a liar if I said that I wasn’t a fan.

I have saved what may have been the best collection in my opinion till last(although not purposefully). The J Mendel collection spoke red carpet moments to me. Continuing with the silhouette mapped out in the Spring collection, Gilles Mendel presents us with a Romanesque architectural collection with an emphasis on draping(I hope that came out right). The furs… the furs… what can I say about the furs? There is nothing to say to adequately describe the beauty embedded within them, and at the same time there’s so much to say about how the inherent masculinity of them contradicts with the femininity in the gowns. Again I can only say… red carpet moments.

PREFALL 2011: The Drape


Models(from left): Yulia Terentieva, unknown, Katie Fogarty, and Hanne Gaby Odiele
Labels(from left): Doo.Ri, Nicole Miller, Ports 1961, and Rag & Bone

I actually didn’t think that finding trends would be this difficult. I find myself going back from show to show observing and comparing, observing and comparing in ways that I never have before. Usually it’s very click, click, click, bam, I have it. Now I have to really look at the shows and find things that are not only going to be apparent to me but apparent to you as well and in an attempt to include as many shows as possible, I really have to be paying attention. But enough of that, let’s finally actually speak to this draping trend that seems to be happening.

Doo. Ri and Rag & Bone happen to be old time faves of mine, Doo. Ri happening to be more recent a fave than Rag & Bone. With the pre-fall collection Doo. Ri seems to stray a little from what she presented for the Spring in color, palette. She stays very true to her technical skill, creating garments that are seemingly molded onto Yulia’s body, as Ports 1961 did on Katie. Rag & Bone on the other hand gave Hanne Gaby Odiele a little more room to move in a sexy, draped cocktail dress that was arguably the most dressed up piece presented in their pre-fall collection. The collection seemed to evoke a Brooklyn girl, comfortable with long nights and late mornings. This contrasted greatly with the architectually dressed, artsy girl wearing Nicole Miller. With a wide legged pant and mostly dark wardrobe the muse seems to be a mix between Rad Hourani and Christopher Kane.

PREFALL 2011: Black Suits


Models(from left): Julia Saner, Hyoni Kang, Jandra Dziaugyte, Juana BergaLabels: Jason Wu, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Elie Tahari, Jenni Kayne

It is in fact true, the season that we have come to know as Pre-Fall has begun. Well the season hasn’t begun, but show season has. While I have to make apologies for not being around that often I think the best thing to do in this case is to not harp on it and stride along, and into the business that we must attend to for today.

So I wasn’t sure how I wanted to cover Pre-Fall shows. As we approach a new year there of course will be some changes. I’ve decided to do it this way though, in more of a trendier type of way since preseason shows(or presentations which are more common) in general happen to be a bit more commercial than other shows.

As I flicked through the images from the shows, of which up to now have mainly been from New York(most shows from Paris and Milan will show at the end of January and the beginning of February) I continually saw one look with various takes: the black suit. What’s even more interesting is that I saw it with small punches of red(heels on Julia, gloves on Jandra, and hankerchief on Juana). The black suiting made me think back to the black army that Dolce and Gabbana sent down the runway for Fall 2010…

all I can say though ladies is, suit up.

BCBG on Trends

http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=9033110&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1

Here Lubov Azria discusses pretty much where her head was at as the creative director of BCBG for the upcoming season. The clip comes from a full video that was filmed and seems to go back and forth between a photoshoot from the line and Azria’s opinions. I say that she’s pretty much on with the upcoming trends for the season so paying attention would be beneficial.