So pre-fall is a weird season. I mean it is a working season, this is true so many brands make alot of money off of it, but it’s very peculiar. Why, because the name doesn’t really tell you what it’s for. Spring collections are for Spring, Fall collections are for fall. Resort/Cruise collections are for more tropical locales… like resorts and cruises. Maybe I’m wrong but in the 4 seasons I learned in school there was no pre-fall. Because of this, designers treat the season in different ways, and while some show bikinis, others show heavier pieces… like furs.
Carolina Herrera to me always makes beautiful pieces. That’s really the only way I can describe them, as beautiful. The hats from Spring 2011 sent me into convulsions, in only the best of ways of course. While this collection didn’t quite do the same, it has grown on me a since first seeing it, the more voluminous pieces working down my resistance quicker than the rest.
The Oscar de la Renta collection on the other hand, which I was able to catch the livestream of, really was something that I instantly liked. From the first look, which featured the top backwards on the model, all the way through to what I can only describe as the Indian Princess ball gowns, including every bow, and evening jumpsuit in between, I was practically in lust. It may be a bit weird, but I found myself almost frothing at the simplistic luxury found in the look featured above.
Donna Karan showed two collections during her Pre-Fall collection: the first being a new collection entitled “The Casual” and the second being her main Donna Karan collection. Based on her 7 basic pieces, Donna Karan managed to bring something a bit new to her customer, something that I can only explain as… casual. The layering, the furs, the color palette, everything pointed towards this motif and I’d be a liar if I said that I wasn’t a fan.
I have saved what may have been the best collection in my opinion till last(although not purposefully). The J Mendel collection spoke red carpet moments to me. Continuing with the silhouette mapped out in the Spring collection, Gilles Mendel presents us with a Romanesque architectural collection with an emphasis on draping(I hope that came out right). The furs… the furs… what can I say about the furs? There is nothing to say to adequately describe the beauty embedded within them, and at the same time there’s so much to say about how the inherent masculinity of them contradicts with the femininity in the gowns. Again I can only say… red carpet moments.
I actually didn’t think that finding trends would be this difficult. I find myself going back from show to show observing and comparing, observing and comparing in ways that I never have before. Usually it’s very click, click, click, bam, I have it. Now I have to really look at the shows and find things that are not only going to be apparent to me but apparent to you as well and in an attempt to include as many shows as possible, I really have to be paying attention. But enough of that, let’s finally actually speak to this draping trend that seems to be happening.
Doo. Ri and Rag & Bone happen to be old time faves of mine, Doo. Ri happening to be more recent a fave than Rag & Bone. With the pre-fall collection Doo. Ri seems to stray a little from what she presented for the Spring in color, palette. She stays very true to her technical skill, creating garments that are seemingly molded onto Yulia’s body, as Ports 1961 did on Katie. Rag & Bone on the other hand gave Hanne Gaby Odiele a little more room to move in a sexy, draped cocktail dress that was arguably the most dressed up piece presented in their pre-fall collection. The collection seemed to evoke a Brooklyn girl, comfortable with long nights and late mornings. This contrasted greatly with the architectually dressed, artsy girl wearing Nicole Miller. With a wide legged pant and mostly dark wardrobe the muse seems to be a mix between Rad Hourani and Christopher Kane.
It is in fact true, the season that we have come to know as Pre-Fall has begun. Well the season hasn’t begun, but show season has. While I have to make apologies for not being around that often I think the best thing to do in this case is to not harp on it and stride along, and into the business that we must attend to for today.
So I wasn’t sure how I wanted to cover Pre-Fall shows. As we approach a new year there of course will be some changes. I’ve decided to do it this way though, in more of a trendier type of way since preseason shows(or presentations which are more common) in general happen to be a bit more commercial than other shows.
As I flicked through the images from the shows, of which up to now have mainly been from New York(most shows from Paris and Milan will show at the end of January and the beginning of February) I continually saw one look with various takes: the black suit. What’s even more interesting is that I saw it with small punches of red(heels on Julia, gloves on Jandra, and hankerchief on Juana). The black suiting made me think back to the black army that Dolce and Gabbana sent down the runway for Fall 2010…
all I can say though ladies is, suit up.
Here Lubov Azria discusses pretty much where her head was at as the creative director of BCBG for the upcoming season. The clip comes from a full video that was filmed and seems to go back and forth between a photoshoot from the line and Azria’s opinions. I say that she’s pretty much on with the upcoming trends for the season so paying attention would be beneficial.