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Category: summer

SPRING: Prada Womenswear 2011


Model: Jessica Stam
Photographer:
The Sartorialist
Label:
Prada
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear

Before I actually begin to discuss the hedonism that was the Prada Spring Summer 2011 Womenswear collection, I would like to get something off of my chest. Blogging womenswear is decidedly alot easier than menswear. Runway that is. Information and resources are light years ahead in womenswear compared to menswear. For example, to find out the casting list for this show, I only had to click through Style.com and I got the models name as well as a short GIF of them actually walking in the show. For menswear, I had to track down a list, which was alphabetized, and then in turn look up every model on said list(if I didn’t know them) to find who exactly they were. I mean, I have no problem with womenswear bloggers, and don’t completely consider myself a “menswear blogger” but I just wanted to make that point.

Now why don’t we get into some bananas, 20’s, color blocking, and good old fashion hedonistic behavior; in other words, the Prada Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear collection.


Shala Monroque(Editor at Large for Pop Magazine)
Photographer:
Jak and Jil
Blouse and Skirt: Prada Spring/Summer 2011
Bracelet: Delfina Delettrez

Always the first one to rock peices from new Prada collections, days after Miuccia Prada showed the Prada Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear collection in the same space she showed the Menswear collection a few months prior, Shala Monroque was spotted by Tommy Ton of Jak and Jil wearing pieces from the collection. The detailed shot of the blouse(Look 26 in the show worn by Hannah Noble) makes evident what the funky designs covering pieces of the collection are: monkeys. Of course and you can’t realistically do a collection featuring monkeys as the cherubs for your work without bananas, now can you? Miuccia even got in on it herself, taking her bow in a small pair of bright yellow banana earrings, which I sadly didn’t catch on any of the model’s ears.

Deciphering a Prada collection is always like attempting to figure out what your mom puts in your favorite dish. There’s just so many things that it could be, so many things that are blatant, but you always have the uncanny feeling that you’ve missed something. In the collection, the monkeys are evident, as are the bananas. Even the flapper-esque fit of some of the dresses, with the fringe adorning the hem is there for all to see, and hear apparently. But is that the depth of the 20’s influence? Only a little fringe, and the flapper fit? Or are those fur stoles supposed to remind us of the Jazz Age with a more modern, hedonistic twist? Are we to look to the stacked boaters and think of decades past and platforms forgotten? Oh and what about that darn sombrero? Although packing a punch in the color department, where exactly did that come from? The bananas maybe? Of course and all of that isn’t even touching on the question of who exactly closes a Spring/Summer show with a black dress?

Accessories Shot
Photographer: Sonny
Label: Prada
Collection: Spring/Summer Womenswear 2011

All in all, while the collection nods to the trends, including a little to minimalism, it’s fully hedonistic. That’s really the only word I can find to describe it. It seems that the Prada woman will have something to celebrate in the Spring/Summer of 2011 and it will include her tall heels no matter what Prada’s CEO, Patrizio Bertelli, has to say or thinks about it. And the only thing I have to say is… I’d have it no other way.

Backstage Shot
Models: Jourdan Dunn(left), and Melodie Monrose(right)
Photographer: Sonny
Label: Prada
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011

See the entire collection in the galleries.

Opened: Arizona Muse
Closed: Arizona Muse
Exclusive: Lynn Amelie Rage

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SPRING: LaRoque 2011


Models: Sadye Clinton
Photographer: Travis Teate
Label: LaRoque
Season: Spring/Summer 2011

When it comes to local fashion, to be entirely honest there’s not much going on. Sure, there are some start ups that I want to see develop but Columbia fashion is not where it could theoretically be, nor where I feel it should be. This of course, is a horrible way to start off a post but I’m a blogger, so I have to be honest right? The thing is, the LaRoque label to me is

a shining beacon of hope for… oh, I don’t know… let’s say a young boy growing up in Rhode Island with six brothers pretending to go to soccer practice when he was really going to sewing class and reading Runway under the covers at night with a flashlight.

Stanley Tucci in Devil Wears Prada

Thus it would be insane for me to not post the Spring/Summer 2011 collection.

http://c.brightcove.com/services/viewer/federated_f9?isVid=1
News 19 Interview
Designer: Annabelle Laroque
Label: LaRoque

Southern, Sophisticated, and Modern, that’s how I would describe the Spring/Summer 2011 collection of LaRoque. With her latest offerings, Annabelle LaRoque takes a label that has been deeply rooted in tradition, very much regarded as a “pretty aesthetic” (in the most beautiful of ways of course) and pushed her child a few steps forward. Styled by Marquis Bias, the collection combines the LaRoque staple of skirts and dresses with a new option: shorts. Adorned with a bow here, and a golden button there, the shorts blend seamlessly into the already strong label’s repertoire.

Of course, we all know that the right color palette is vital to me and with a frothy pink to begin and an injection of tangarine, teal-aqua, and finally black on a shape that is effortlessly cute, my taste is satiated. It’s a collection that should be on hand for any southern girl(even if only at heart) and beginning Spring/Summer 2011, that should prove alot easier as LaRoque will be in 17 different boutiques. Lensed by Travis Teate, LaRoque‘s latest collection leaves me with a feeling of hope for the Columbia industry and only thirst for what she will bring us for next season.

See the rest of the lookbook in the galleries.
Follow LaRoque on Twitter.Visit the LaRoque website.
Models: Sadye Clinton and Sandra West
Photographer: Travis Teate
Stylist: Marquis Bias
Designer: Annabelle LaRoque
Hair & Make-Up: Anna Welén

SPRING: Petar Petrov 2011

Model: Linus Gustin
Label: Petar Petrov
Season: Spring/Summer 2011

If you follow me on Twitter then you already knew that this was coming. I mean I did warn you by saying “I think that if I lived in Paris I’d try to live the Spring/Summer of 2011 in all Petar Petrov… I’m just saying”. I wasn’t just rambling as I frequently do on Twitter, no I was making a very probable statement. If I were in Paris I’d try to outfit myself in a very simplistic, light, and yet appropriate wardrobe and with the Petar Petrov Spring/Summer 2011 collection, that’s what I’m presented with.

For this collection Petar Petrov, Bulgarian by birth, brings us a light, yet classic menswear collection. While I was a tad puzzled by smiling models on the catwalk, I couldn’t deny the effortless simplicity held within the design. Even the shoe, which reminded me of a leather version of the velvet slippers that have become so popular, spoke to simplicity. The colour palette, ranging from off white to a burgundy, and including light green as well as indigo, evoked a feeling of spring in and of themself, without considering the relaxed quality of the treated cotton fabrics.
While pieces were indeed classic, the styling of the pieces was not as common. Blazers with a crew neck, and sometimes even sans shirt were sent down the runway. Cropped shirts, also made their way onto the floor, at times layered above a crew neck, and at others, just brushing bare skin. The fall of the garments signify comfort as even the denim seems to have some considerable give in it and was paired with everything from what appears to be a sweat shirt, to a blazer, show it’s versatility.
The collection ended to me as a classic menswear collection applied to a slightly new taste palette. With pieces that are interchangeable and a color palette that encourages that it seems to be an entire wardrobe for the season. I only have one question though… are the shoes included??


See the rest of the collection in the galleries.

Open: Adnan Djinovic
Closed: Adnan Djinovic

SPRING: Josep Abril 2011

Model: Linus Gustin
Label: Josep Abril
Collection: Summer/Spring 2011(Barcelona)

Paris, Milan, New York, and London are not the only fashion weeks that happen, and they by far aren’t the only weeks that I view images from. While the Fashion Four do deserve, and recieve alot of attention I find myself seeking out the weeks in other cities as well and recently have found that I like a collection that showed during the main weeks but slipped through the cracks. The Josep Abril collection was shown during Barcelona Fashion Week, and I found it because I was flipping through another show that I recieved some information on. I immediately gravitated towards Josep Abril because the collection , utilizing the colors red magenta, blue, and white, includes knitwear… for the Summer/Spring 2011 season. I’m not sure if I’ve admitted it to you all yet but, I love knitwear.


To be entirely honest I was a tad startled by the casting. As I flicked through the images I noticed a slightly feminine curve to one of the models and upon closer inspection realized that it was indeed a girl. A second runthrough of the looks revealed to me that yes indeed a few girls like Daniela Kocianova were sprinkled in with the guys who made up the line up including models like Jon Kortajarena, Jakob Hybholt, Clement Chaubernaud and Linus Gustin. Josep says this of casting females to walk in the show:

I wanted to cancel the divide between menswear and women’s clothes because it’s also a luxury for women to be able to dress in men’s clothes.

Josep Abril
After getting over that I began to take in the bold color and relaxed luxury of the collection. The knits, both heavy and light, seemed to create a very relaxed mood which surprisingly gelled well with the color pallette. Whereas red can sometimes be blaring or startling, the decision to use red magenta, toned it down just enough to give it a very relaxed and yet still relevant tone. Of course, the white is always a spring color for me and this was no different. It seemed to emphasize more of the simplicity of the collection while still retaining the same relaxed luxury held throughout.

See the rest of the collection in the galleries

SPRING: Calvin Klein Menswear 2011

Backstage Photo
Photographer:
Sonny Vandevelde
Label: Calvin Klein
Season: Summer/Spring 2011(Milan)

So when the menswear shows came I told myself, I would not stress myself out over reviewing them. I would get to them in due time… I mean I do have until January before shows start up again. It is now November, and I’m beginning back in on them and first up is Calvin Klein. The most memorable part to most were the cropped tops, and to others, they were the shorts that David Abodji wore that left little to the imagination. To me, I wanted to see the shoes. Peculiar, yes, but I was just sort of in awe of this shoe that seemed like it was attempting to be a cross between a dress shoe and sneaker. It was even used as both in the show. So of course I went on a hunt for said shoe and couldn’t find it until I went to Sonny’s blog. There they were, sitting at the bottom of his images. I only smiled.


So I’ve arranged the 4 looks that I’ve decided to display on the blog in a very specific way. It’s all about the amount of skin shown. Awkward way to organize, I’m sure but I mean it was the first thing I thought of. The collection which is most certainly at least a tad inspired by activewear, is a new take on minimalism. While still retaining minimalistic ideals of mostly monochromatic pieces Itallo Zuccelli begins to rework very basic pieces by cropping them. Jackets nor tanks were kept from his shears. When I first saw the collection I immediately thought of football players, and I wasn’t too far off:

The inspiration of the collection is very graphic that’s why I had bold prints,
a lot of jacquard and the big check at the end, and I wanted it to be very
graphic also with the shapes, the cropped styles and the logo. It’s kind of
inspired by rugby actually, I put it on these very strong guys and it looks very
masculine and it’s quite sexy. It’s quite utilitarian, it’s kind of like a khaki
fabric and it was in blue and then it was in khaki also in the show with like
this new carrot pant, shaped like a carrot and a big shirt. I thought it was
like a sort of uniform for the city.

-Italo Zucchelli

If only I could wear this as a uniform… a boy can dream can’t he? Of course, I couldn’t wear it like it is displayed on the runway, as most are thinking of wearing these pieces. The pieces would look alot different with some sort of tank top underneath, mesh for me. Pieces like these in my opinion, look best layered, and that’s exactly what I’d do with them.




Open: Jakum Zelman
Close: David Agbodji

Exclusives: Brian Blank(NY Models), David Agbodji, Ryan Koning(Major)

See more images from the show in the galleries.

Safari Opulence

Detail Accessory Shot
Collection: Lanvin Summer/Spring 2011(Paris)
Label: Lanvin
I hope you didn’t think that my fashion week coverage was over! PARIS has only just ended my dear dahlings, and to me Paris is very much like New York! Well, not in terms of aesthetic or philosophy but in terms of the amount of shows I wish to cover. I mean in aesthetic, while New York is all about who’s new, who’s cool, who’s now, Paris looks more to the houses of old. When you hear the terms house DNA or when critics begin to discuss designers rifling through the archives, you’re more than likely discussing some Parisian house. I mean think about the Yves Saint Laurent issue: Pierre Berge wishes to end any further production to perserve the legacy of the YSL brand and the way that he attempts to thwart any designer that has been hired to head the brand, like Stefano Pilati, he makes accessing the archives, which are owned by a fund in his name, difficult. But enough about that, let’s get to Alber Ebaz and this Lanvin collection since we apparently have 3 more years to discuss Pilati and YSL.

My personal aesthetic is pretty minimalistic. I’m not afraid or ashamed to admit it. I love my aesthetic… which is why I attempt to maintain it. But the thing is, I LOVE to take my minimalistic aesthetic and use it to set off some accessories. To really put them on display! I mean since there ideally isn’t much going on with my clothes, besides attention to the cut and fall of them, I can indulge on pieces like the housefly featured above from the first look of the Lanvin collection. I can only say one thing to Elie Top… DIVINE!

The actual collection was marvelous to me. The hair slicked back in a, no nonsense way, it was immediately all about the garments. While I didn’t love every look, I certainly loved most of them. Beginning with a colorblocking motif, the collection goes from billowing to sheath in 8 looks. Skirt suits are then explored, with a slight experimentation of the cut of the arm before the collection begins to take the strands it has set up and weave them together blossoming into bright cocktail dresses. After dropping in a few swimwear looks, the collection goes back to a loser fit, examining the suit which appears to be a rain suit that has been put in a bag, had all the air vacuumed out, and then pulled out of the bag, left in it’s wrinkled state.

After addressing chiffon, the collection seems to step into the more ornate. Looks become jeweled even. The ending, a group set, seemed to come out of no where to me, had I not seen the house fly. The print of the group set evokes a tribal feeling to me, and once I began to mull over that my brain begins to step back into the area of the suits and I begin to consider suiting for a safari or rain forest. This makes me revisit the chiffon until I began to consider it as mosquito netting, and thus I have begun to rework the entire collection with my simple musing. But hey, whether I’m right or not… the collection is still stunning.



Gareth Pugh-An Argument for Fashion Film

Video Presentation
Model: Kristen McMenamy
Director: Rugh Hogben
Label: Gareth Pugh
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011(Paris)

To say I’m not looking for my next Alexander McQueen… would be to blatantly lie. I am. I don’t and never did think that Sarah Burton would be able to fill the void that was created by the industry’s loss of him, so the only thing I could think to do was to find a… supplement. Whether it’s “ethically right or wrong” it’s what I decided that I needed to do to cope, to make me understand that I was now not the only person that saw fashion as an art. I wanted to know that true creativity and innovation was still around and kicking and to be entirely honest, with the Gareth Pugh collection I was given that hope.

Is Gareth Pugh Alexander McQueen? NO! He’s not, and he never will be. But in my opinion Gareth is not afraid to go there. Explaining the concept of there would prove cumbersome… and confusing, but Gareth is there. Maybe it’s because he has a background in costume design. That theatre base has instilled in him this knack for creating theatrics which he does… and does well I might add.

Some saw the most important part of this collection not to be in the cut, not to be in the color, not even to be in the styling or aesthetic but instead… the film that was shown. Until this point, while many have tried, few have made a substantial alternative to the fashion show. A fashion show’s effectiveness at showing the movement of a garment while also allowing the designer to procure the correct mood, all in a time efficient manner, is the reason that we haven’t deviated much for the sanctity of the show. Of course there’s also the sanctity of the front row that editors don’t want to give up.

“I really want to present my clothes to a wider audience and in a more freeing and interesting context than a standard fashion show: film enables me to regain total artistic and creative freedom. I feel very strongly that Fashion Film should not be seen as a secondary medium to live catwalk events, but as a modern alternative.”
“There is still a long way for fashion film to go; to be accepted as a medium in it’s own right, and to be given its place within the fashion industry. I think a lot of designers are just beginning to discover and appreciate its real and unique values”

-Gareth Pugh

With this film for his Spring/Summer 2011 collection Pugh may finally have made a lasting case against “the show”. In an interview on SHOWStudio he expressed his distaste for the fashion show and said that he would be interested in finding an alternative. Starring Kristen McMenamy, the film shows the garments in ways that a show never could. Furthermore, it allows for the designer to make sure that everything is perfect and not done in some hectic manner the way that some shows happen to be. The film doesn’t seem to be cheeky or contrived like some videos are and very much creates a mood. It seems that Gareth Pugh has filled his goals while at the same time creating a stunningly strong, smooth, neutral collection that of course has me lusting after each piece.

Glimpse the New Denim at Topman

I spoke of a “Topman Denim” series of short films did I not? Well here is the trailer. Meet Louis, Henry, & Sid who have been described as “young protagonists.” Want to see what they’ll be up to? Well the full films will be launched in two days on October 4th. Stick around.

And for your viewing pleasure this is the Topman Design Spring/Summer 2011 show which showed at London Fashion Week. I was quite taken by the shorts. I loved them to be honest. All of the extra fabric and belted in a very… geriatric type of way. The belts are strong and give a little twist to the looks. Of course I noticed the shades, and the bags, and the rest of the clothing but the lengths of the shorts, and belting really caught my attention. I mean, I’m not a very round lens type of boy, so… while I can appreciate the slight feminine qualities, and the nice styling of them… it’s not something I see myself incorporating into my wardrobe any time soon.

Dries Van Noten is Inspirational

Collection: Dries Van Noten
Season: Spring/Summer 2011 (Paris)
To quote Candy Pratts Price, “September is the January of fashion” and I find myself sitting here on the last day of the month finally experiencing that moment of transcendence that I await every fashion season. At this point I have trudged through the fashion weeks of New York, London, and Milan found, much to my disappointment, that the collections were quite clinical to put it politely. Of course there were a few exceptions—Marc Jacobs, Marchesa, and Carolina Herrera in NY, Burburry in London, and Gucci in Milan, but as a whole I found myself desperately underwhelmed. I was on the verge of giving up this season, finding that I could barely even bring myself to look at another runway review, and then it happened: I stumbled upon Dries Van Noten. Finally I had found what I was looking for so fervently—inspiration. Simplicity, elegance, and glamour all rolled into one. I found in this collection the same aesthetic that was perpetuated by my biggest fashion influence Mademoiselle Coco Chanel, a simplistic femininity peppered with elements of men’s tailoring. The end result is a confident, sexy, elegant lady who knows what she wants and takes it for herself. In other words the Coco Chanel of today.


For this collection Dries was inspired by the paintings of Belgian artist Jef Verheyen. The designer found himself captivated by the artist’s ability to capture light in his work and therefore set out to accomplish the same feat in his Spring/Summer Womenswear collection. The collection was a masterful display of beautifully feminine blouses covered in iridescent paillettes nestled beneath dramatically oversized menswear inspired blazers. Ornate patterns taken from Chinese ceramics were applied to sumptuous white silks and then bleached away to create an enchanting ombre effect. One of my favorite moments from the collection came the form of look 49—a black oversized blazer over a pewter blouse, covered in paillettes that tied at the neck. Placed underneath was a simple white skirt that appeared to be nothing more or less than the bottom end of a men’s dress shirt as it appears when left un-tucked. The look summed up what I feel is the essence of the entire collection and I later learned that this was one of the designers favorite looks as well.
The accessories of the collection anchored the soft elegance of the silks and paillettes. The shoes were done in soft suede in muted tones with chunky heels. The glasses and handbags were sleek and modern as well were the jewelry pieces. All of these elements come together with the clothes like the sections of an orchestra to produce the sartorial symphony that was the Dries Van Noten womenswear collection for spring/summer 2011.

See the collection in it’s entirety on Style.

MARQUIS BIAS


Marquis Bias is an expert in fashion and style based in Columbia, South Carolina. He is well known throughout South Carolina for his work as a fashion stylist and creative director as well as his position as the President of the Fashion Board at the University of South Carolina.

Follow him on Twitter.

"Pretty Woman, Walking Down The Street"

Label: Jonathan Saunders
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011(London)
Photographer: The Sartorialist
Even if I haven’t been blogging every show, I’ve atleast seen an image from all of them. It just so happens that when you’re juggling a job that you worked 40 hours on this week, as well as school work, and some other things… sometimes you can’t cover things like you want to. But that’s alright, even though we are well into Milan and about to step into Paris, I shall take a moment and pull us back into London, to examine Jonathan Saunders.

See the rest of my opinion as well as images from the show below the clip.

Some are inclined to believe that there is no difference between fashion weeks except for location. I don’t… and really can’t believe this. New York is commercialized. It’s about who is cool right now, and why they are cool. The reason they are cool is because everyone… well not really everyone, but the right crowd is wearing those pieces, thus they are popular. Case studies include Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, and finally Marc Jacobs. You can also look to Marchesa as well. In London, it’s about the concept. London designers are more apt to see their collections as pieces of art, and to create them accordingly which is why sometimes, hot names are not always the most profitable. A prime example of this, although the label has long moved from showing in London, is Alexander McQueen.
All of this being said, Scottish born designer, Jonathan Saunders understands these facts. After the graduate of Central Saint Martin’s debuted his label in London he received the Fashion Enterprise Award and the Elle Style Awards Designer of the Year. In February of 2008 Saunders moved his collection to New York. After this collection he returned to London and continued showing his collection for his namesake label there as well as coordinating the design for Pollini as Creative Director, which shows in Milan.
This latest collection shows Jonathan’s strength in print design while showing his versatility. It makes it clear to me that he could make it in New York any day, as apparently he plans to. The silhouettes of the garments give an ode to the “real woman” and to be entirely honest… I think I love her alot more than her androgynous sister. Well then again… I can wear her sister’s clothes :/


See the rest of the collection in the galleries.