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Category: spring 2011

SPRING: Fernando Frisoni


label Fernando Frisoni
season Spring/Summer 2011/2012 at Rosemount Australia Fashion Week

In most of the collections that I’ve seen from Australia Fashion Week, there’s been this sort of soft or light quality. I don’t really find this in the Fernando Frisoni collection. A label that isn’t new to me, Fernando Frisoni presents a collection with a color palette of whites, blacks, and a metallic gold. Only offering up a hand full of menswear looks this season, Frisoni seems to create long lasting pieces including a pair of shorts ere, an interesting dress there, in colors that will stand the test of time. While there was something about the pockets that bothered me, the collection as a whole, the man skirt to be more specific, pleased me and made clear that Frisoni was no newbie.
Prior to design, Frisoni was a writer and a stylist. He launched his label in 2008 and added womenswear two years later. His aesthetic for classicism has been present throughout his time as a designer.
source | for tomorrow
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SPRING: Gary Bigeni 11/12


label Gary Bigeni
season Spring/Summer 2011/2012 at Rosemount Australia Fashion Week

It seemed that a bit of relative softness wasn’t only reserved for the Lo Sordo show. Gary Bigeni lends me to believe that more than one designer in Australia has caught on to this sort of neo-minimalism trend that has been popping up lately and has decided to run with it. Draped, belted, and powerful with the color, the collection is entirely utilitarian varying from striped tunic dresses to a leather skirt. While things did seem a little fuzzy for a moment with the layering(like the leather jacket, and a few other looks although I did love the leather pieces) Bigeni’s show was a strong one and his voice on Australian fashion is most certainly one to be heard. Bigeni’s sponsor, Spanx must have been pretty pleased as though draped and beautiful the pieces, the wearer would need a pretty fine body for the pieces to hang and look exactly as they were meant to.

source | for tomorrow

SPRING: Michael Lo Sordo 11/12

label Michael Lo Sordo
season Spring 2011/Summer 2012 at Rosemount Australia Fashion Week

Though I did happen to start off my RAFW coverage with a bad review, it most certainly isn’t all bad. Michael Lo Sordo makes a strong, if soft, statement for the week with a collection of looks that while simplistic, are never bland. Utilizing geometric shapes, a keen minimalist eye, a dash of print, and more than his share of chiffon, Sordo creates a collection that leaves more of an impression than anything else, a lasting impression on the viewer wherein the spirit of the collection is found. To be completely honest though, it may have been those ballerina esque knife pleats that enticed me coupled with the long-sleeved, night gown like dress that seemed to ripple off the model. I’m a sucker for femininity, grace, and discipline, and these are the qualities that will be required to pull of any number of these looks.

SPRING: Karla Spetic 2011/12

Fashion weeks other than the Formidable Four do exist. You may be happy to know this but fashion shows continue throughout the year, various designers showing their wares for buyers, editors, and even just crowds of the masses who are eager enough to purchase a ticket. Rosemount Australian Fashion Week just happens to be one of those weeks.
With a show schedule that’s a bit confusing, RAFW began yesterday. Unlike in other weeks where designers are showing Fall/Winter 2011, designers in Australia are showing Spring 2011/2012. This is the 16th year of the fashion week and they still have yet to shake the negative connotation that has been attached to them. I’ve been told, even from Australians, that designers that show are mainly known for blatantly ripping off the designs and aesthetics of mainstream houses.
I normally don’t start a post off so negative but while looking over the Karla Spetic collection, I couldn’t help but narrow my eyebrows. I saw what was clearly was a regurgitation of the last few seasons in Milan, complete with Versace and Gucci. The cut outs, the coloring, the silhouettes, all did nothing but evoke a Miranda Priestly moment within me, “I’ve seen all of this before.” The draped dresses, with their midriff flounce did not remind me of anything else though and I enjoyed them. It showed that there was something there but I would only hope that Spetic would delve more into her own design aesthetic and shun the outside influences less they remain overtones in her collections and not the undertones they should be.


source | for tomorrow

Color for the Boys


Thomas Gibbons shot by Chris Petranis in GQ Russia

It’s always interesting to see the looks from the shows and then watch at how the various voices screaming for attention in the industry are interpreted to the masses by the various fashion editors and stylists. I could have told you when the shows were going on that for menswear it was going to be a colorful season. With heavy hitters like Prada, Raf Simons, and Calvin Klein all showing some type of color blocked collections for men, it was sort of a given. Sure enough, publications around the world turned out more than their share of color blocked stories featuring those candy colored striped sweaters that Miuccia sent down the runway and the bright trousers from Jil Sander. Here’s just a handful of images from those editorials as color makes it’s rounds on menswear.


Nicolas Ripoll shot by Takay in Velvet Magazine

Bastiaan Ninaber shot by Matteo Montanari in GQ Germany

Linus Gustin shot by Jason Kim for Essential Homme

Hadrien & Toon shot by Steve Beckouet for Blast Magazine

River Viiperi and Sebastian Sauve shot by Arnaldo Anaya-Lucca for GQ Style Russia

source | thefashionisto, thefashionspot, thefashionspot, thefashionisto, bananas, thefashionisto

SPOTLIGHT: Tze Goh

Label: Tze Goh
Season: Fall 2010

Designing an all white collection is no simple feat. Beyond that, designing an all white Fall collection in an industry where relevancy is key, and presenting it as your graduate presentation at Central Saint Martins( a school that has graduated the likes of John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Giles Deacon, Phoebe Philo, Gareth Pugh, and the most recent winner of the BFC/Vogue Fund, Christopher Kane) could be considered downright daring. This is exactly what Tze Goh chose to do though, and has done so to great success.
Born in Singapore, Goh has studied fashion in Paris, New York, and London. It is not this that piques my interest though. His time in the military(which is where in his boredom he actually turned to fashion) and his study of Japanese architect Tadao Ando prove much more insightful to his designs, than any work at the sewing machine, or in class studying color theory.
Only about to show his 3rd collection, Tze Goh, has already made a name for himself. His designs are unique even in the last days of minimalism because of the sensual architectural shapes created with materials never seen before. Some of the fabrics contain foam, giving the individual pieces the appearance of being molded instead of sewn together.
For his next collection, set to show at London Fashion Week in addition to Paris Fashion Week, Goh says his inspiration includes “japanese simplicity, natural elements, and Porsche cars.” While I may not know what that’s going to morph into, I only have to glance at his past to keep myself fixated Tze Goh’s future.

Fall 2010


Spring 2011


source | tze goh

SPRING: Prada Beijing 2011

Miccia Prada really has been outdoing herself for the past couple of seasons. With Prada and the diffusion label Miu Miu, there has seldom been a time since the brand hasn’t been circulating in the fashion blogosphere. Last month was the ad campaign(the video as well as the print ad) and the menswear show, and now we find ourselves looking at footage from the Spring 2011 show that she re staged in Beijing.
Not realizing the importance of China in the luxury market will probably prove fatal to brands. Miuccia shows that she recognizes the importance by pulling up stakes and holding an entire(although tweaked) show including menswear and womenswear in Beijing. While the sentiment of the show held constant, with the baroque motifs, there were tiny additions that interested me. Prints were done in different fabrics, and new pieces (like the man bags which look a tad similar to what just showed for Fall 2011) were shown. Stores will more than likely carry pieces similar to the ones shown in Beijing.

COUTURE: Dior Spring 2011

John Galliano
Label Dior Haute Couture
Collection: Spring 2011 for Paris Haute Couture

The couture shows have begun. While I didn’t cover Paris Menswear(I was waiting for video which sadly hasn’t surfaced for many shows) I have all intentions on covering some of the couture shows and what better way to start than with Grandfather Dior?
For Spring 2011(I had a slight mixup on which season we were in on Twitter), John Galliano seems to have hit his stride with the Dior Haute Couture collections. For this latest collection, he’s kept the same general silhouette, one that will fit beautifully on the new Miss Dior Cherie, Natalie Portman, in her pregnant state, while changing the color palette and experimenting with a few tweaks in materials and detailing. Opening the show with runway stomper Karlie Kloss, Galliano evokes a strong, but beautiful aesthetic for the brand including a few sheathes and even some full skirts. The show only has me anticipating the rest of the week.

SPRING: Tom Ford Womenswear 2011

We waited, we waited, and we’ve waited some more. Some have fallen off along the way but there are a select group of us that have held on, striving for the end result, struggling to satiate our hunger with the meager scraps left for us here and there, knowing that nothing could really replace what we were searching for but trying to satisfy our hunger anyhow. Well the main course has finally arrive and I present to you the complete imagelist, along with a short video of the Tom Ford Womenswear Spring 2011 collection. Welcome back Father Ford.

Since September I’ve been culling together every bit of information I could about the Tom Ford‘s return to Womenswear. I’ve scoured editorial after editorial, and read credit after credit to see pieces as soon as possible. The result was, besides editorials that were done specifically featuring the collection, a cumberbund here and there. The hard work and dedication did allow me to see what probably amounts to half the collection though before it debuted on TomFord.com. The amount of secrecy, exclusivity and ceremony that surrounded the production probably caused 70 percent of the excitement. Well that, and the fact that while this is Mr. Ford’s return to Womenswear, it will be his last womenswear showing(all future collections will be seen by appointment only).

The pieces that Mr. Ford showed cause many to pause. While his return was touted as him picking up from where he left off, and the production seemed similar, it seemed that many of his audience expected that his design aesthetic wouldn’t be. The Spring collection seemed very Fordian to me: a strong connection to his work at YSL, and traces of what he did at Gucci. Each piece contains a permenancy that is more often than not, absent from the pieces that go down many runways today.

If you’re wondering who all will be wearing Tom Ford Spring 2011 on the red carpet for the Oscars, well it will come down to one name. Mr. Ford said that in attempt to step out of the entire “step and repeat” game, and give his clients the exclusivity they need, want, and deserve, after the nominees are named he will choose one woman, and one woman only. He will approach this woman and offer to dress her for the awards. Let the competition begin.






I Love Lucy is Tom Ford’s Inspiration