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Category: pre-fall

PREFALL: Damir Doma 2011

label Damir Doma
season Pre-Fall 2011

As we look forward to today’s Paris Fashion Week schedule of names like Mugler, Gareth Pugh, and Dries Van Noten, I take a moment to look back at the Pre-Fall 2011 collection for Damir Doma who also will be showing today. If Doma’s latest offerings have any connection to what he will offer up today, we should expect models covered from their neck down in geometric and minimalistic blacks and whites. More than likely, Doma will expand on his use of furs in the full collection, roping in more luxury to the very Yves Saint Laurent(though some times it feels like there’s an undercurrent of Helmut Lang) appeal of the collection. Doma seemed to offer up basics for his own muse for Pre-Fall 2011 and for today’s showing, I expect him to provide her with his take on glamour.

PRE-FALL: Calvin Klein Collection 2011

model Simona Andrejic
Calvin Klein Collection
Pre-Fall 2011

Francisco Costa has been pushing minimalism and clean silhouettes for seasons now, so it’s no surprise that he’s done so pre-fall 2011. With a long, almost curveless silhouette, the 19 pieces look to be a shell around the Calvin girl, clean, fresh faces. Using very minimal neutral tones, the pieces come off as iconic and timeless. Viewers are left with an impression, silhouette first, shade later. It sort of makes me think of nuns.
And of course what a more suitable time to look back at the pre-fall collection, seeing as the rumors about the exclusives for the Fall showing are beginning to make their rounds. We know with a special certainty that the exclusive slot at a Klein show (especially an exclusive open or close-just ask David Agbodji who bookended the show before his explosion onto the scene) is coveted in the industry by agent and model alike.

source | style

PRE-FALL: 3.1 Phillip Lim

model Victoire Mac-Dauxerre
label 3.1 Phillip Lim
season Pre-Fall 2011

Phillip Lim is known for his effortless cool. More importantly 3.1 Phillip Lim is known for being affordably cool at the same time. Presenting a pre-fall 2011 collection that is the epitome of simplistic elegance and femininity, Lim progresses with his wildly successful business. 40 looks strong, the collection pushes forward a rich color palette of navy blues and cognac as well as the cremes, tans, browns, and grays that we’ve come to know Lim for. While the collection does feature a few season trends like draping, leather, and sheer, the voice is in no way lost.

source | style, bof

PRE-FALL: Floppy Hats 2011

Labels: Derek Lam, Gucci, Pucci, Sonia Rykiel
Season: Pre-Fall 2011

While this trend could really be expanded to full brimmed hats period(which also were a major trend for the Menswear Fall 2011 shows), floppy hats were certainly a trend on the Pre-Fall 2011 collections. Being from the south, means that floppy sun hats are nothing new to me, but since the Spring 2011 collections, where Prada and Marc Jacobs both showed wide full brimmed hats, it seems that designers have taken a renewed interest in the accessory.
The Pucci collection was was the epitome of feminine sex appeal. Peter Dundas, known for creating his sex appeal, has been working on revamping the Pucci label during his tenure there and there are most certainly more than a few winners in this colorful, stand out collection. His talent for making a woman’s body as beautiful as possible is clearly evident, as is his design longevity.
source | style

PRE-FALL: Pink 2011

Labels: Matthew Williamson, No. 21, Proenza Schouler, Valentino

If you ask me, there aren’t many ways to get more feminine than the color pink. For the Pre-Fall 2011 collections we saw alot of feminine tendencies as well as alot of pink. If you don’t believe me, why don’t you review which Oscar de la Renta gown that Jennifer Lawrence just wore on the red carpet of the 2011 SAG awards. If that doesn’t convince you, nor the four looks from above that I pulled(don’t worry we’re going to get into the Proenza boys in a sec hold your horses), I’m not sure what I can do to convince you.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez do it for me every season with Proenza Schouler. I can’t lie, they just do! This season was no different. With a black boot(sometimes open toed) to accompany every look, the collection conveyed a sense of strength to me. The funny thing is, I’m normally not a print type of guy and yet every season I come back to them. I think they lace the collars with some type of highly addictive substance. It doesn’t matter though, hand me that black over sized blazer and I’ll take a deep whiff.
source | style

PRE-FALL: Leather 2011

Labels: Versace, Giambattista Valli, DSquared2, Celine

Blame Celine or Givenchy, take your pick, but leather has taken a hold on the industry and refuses to let up. The number of little black leather skirts on the runway this season probably pushed record numbers. While the little skirts appeared most commonly in shorter versions, the leather came in other pieces as well, even a plunging v-necked, sleeveless top at The Row that’s deceptively casual.
The Celine pre-fall collection was one I was heavily anticipating. The reason being, Phoebe Philo has been pushing the trends for the past few seasons and from the Spring shows it was evident that there’s an undercurrent of something striving to be expressed that was different. For the Celine Pre-Fall 2011 collection Phoebe Philo moved the brand forward, showing that the clean color blocked minimalism isn’t the extent of the aesthetic. It was the patchworked denim and high necks that caught my attention the most though. The strong pieces of outerwear excited me as well and the collection does what any good Pre-Fall collection should, supply customers with a variety of commercial pieces as well as pique my interest for the Fall collection.

PREFALL 2011: Red Carpet Hopefulls

Monique LhuillierPorts1961 Katie FogartyZac PosenReem Acra2
Labels: Monique Lhuillier, Ports 1961, Zac Posen, Reem Acra

Although I don’t follow it much now, there was a point in time at which I loved the red carpet season. In the past few seasons though, it seems as if the starlets are going safer and their choices are becoming more and more bland. Recently though, I’ve been seeing some images that excite me about the possibilities, not only that the designers are putting out but also that the starlets seem to be wearing. Because of this I’ve decided to feature a few looks that I particularly adore from the recent Pre-Fall collections that continue to roll in. I will have to find a way to adequately cover the international Pre-Fall collections though as the bulk of those have yet to arrive and are sitting on the other side of the new year to attack.

Monique Lhuillier2Monique Lhuillier3
Monique Lhuillier Pre-Fall 2011

Monique Lhuillier is obviously no stranger to beauty. Every collection that she sends down a runway or presents always has atleast a few red carpet gems that even in a time of red carpet restraint see the light of day. Her collection for Pre-Fall 2011 is no different. With gowns that are silhouette driven, Monique makes evident that her gowns are for real women. While I don’t mean real in the “everyday” sense, I do mean real in the, authentic, curvy woman type of way. To be honest, I was never one to pay attention to particularly which person wore which gown on the red carpet(only paying attention to which gowns were worn) If I had to throw a dart at the board I’d say Kim Kardashian would find herself at home in one of these pieces.

Reem AcraReem Acra3
Reem Acra Pre-Fall 2011

Reem Acra is yet another go-to for the red carpet dressing the likes of Beyonce Knowles. With a collection that mixes a bit of old Hollywood glamour with what I can only quantify as an Egyptian ethnicity, the collection spans from metallic mini’s to heavily draped gowns. Reem Acra clearly knows hows to please the red carpet crowd and I think we’ll be seeing Halle Berry and Beyonce Knowles donning pieces from this collection before long.

PREFALL 2011: Fur

Models(from left): Ksenia Kahnovich, Tara Gil, Julia Saner, Lisanne de Jong
Labels(from left): Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Donna Karan, J Mendel

So pre-fall is a weird season. I mean it is a working season, this is true so many brands make alot of money off of it, but it’s very peculiar. Why, because the name doesn’t really tell you what it’s for. Spring collections are for Spring, Fall collections are for fall. Resort/Cruise collections are for more tropical locales… like resorts and cruises. Maybe I’m wrong but in the 4 seasons I learned in school there was no pre-fall. Because of this, designers treat the season in different ways, and while some show bikinis, others show heavier pieces… like furs.

Carolina Herrera to me always makes beautiful pieces. That’s really the only way I can describe them, as beautiful. The hats from Spring 2011 sent me into convulsions, in only the best of ways of course. While this collection didn’t quite do the same, it has grown on me a since first seeing it, the more voluminous pieces working down my resistance quicker than the rest.

The Oscar de la Renta collection on the other hand, which I was able to catch the livestream of, really was something that I instantly liked. From the first look, which featured the top backwards on the model, all the way through to what I can only describe as the Indian Princess ball gowns, including every bow, and evening jumpsuit in between, I was practically in lust. It may be a bit weird, but I found myself almost frothing at the simplistic luxury found in the look featured above.

Donna Karan showed two collections during her Pre-Fall collection: the first being a new collection entitled “The Casual” and the second being her main Donna Karan collection. Based on her 7 basic pieces, Donna Karan managed to bring something a bit new to her customer, something that I can only explain as… casual. The layering, the furs, the color palette, everything pointed towards this motif and I’d be a liar if I said that I wasn’t a fan.

I have saved what may have been the best collection in my opinion till last(although not purposefully). The J Mendel collection spoke red carpet moments to me. Continuing with the silhouette mapped out in the Spring collection, Gilles Mendel presents us with a Romanesque architectural collection with an emphasis on draping(I hope that came out right). The furs… the furs… what can I say about the furs? There is nothing to say to adequately describe the beauty embedded within them, and at the same time there’s so much to say about how the inherent masculinity of them contradicts with the femininity in the gowns. Again I can only say… red carpet moments.

PREFALL 2011: The Drape

Models(from left): Yulia Terentieva, unknown, Katie Fogarty, and Hanne Gaby Odiele
Labels(from left): Doo.Ri, Nicole Miller, Ports 1961, and Rag & Bone

I actually didn’t think that finding trends would be this difficult. I find myself going back from show to show observing and comparing, observing and comparing in ways that I never have before. Usually it’s very click, click, click, bam, I have it. Now I have to really look at the shows and find things that are not only going to be apparent to me but apparent to you as well and in an attempt to include as many shows as possible, I really have to be paying attention. But enough of that, let’s finally actually speak to this draping trend that seems to be happening.

Doo. Ri and Rag & Bone happen to be old time faves of mine, Doo. Ri happening to be more recent a fave than Rag & Bone. With the pre-fall collection Doo. Ri seems to stray a little from what she presented for the Spring in color, palette. She stays very true to her technical skill, creating garments that are seemingly molded onto Yulia’s body, as Ports 1961 did on Katie. Rag & Bone on the other hand gave Hanne Gaby Odiele a little more room to move in a sexy, draped cocktail dress that was arguably the most dressed up piece presented in their pre-fall collection. The collection seemed to evoke a Brooklyn girl, comfortable with long nights and late mornings. This contrasted greatly with the architectually dressed, artsy girl wearing Nicole Miller. With a wide legged pant and mostly dark wardrobe the muse seems to be a mix between Rad Hourani and Christopher Kane.

PREFALL 2011: Black Suits

Models(from left): Julia Saner, Hyoni Kang, Jandra Dziaugyte, Juana BergaLabels: Jason Wu, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Elie Tahari, Jenni Kayne

It is in fact true, the season that we have come to know as Pre-Fall has begun. Well the season hasn’t begun, but show season has. While I have to make apologies for not being around that often I think the best thing to do in this case is to not harp on it and stride along, and into the business that we must attend to for today.

So I wasn’t sure how I wanted to cover Pre-Fall shows. As we approach a new year there of course will be some changes. I’ve decided to do it this way though, in more of a trendier type of way since preseason shows(or presentations which are more common) in general happen to be a bit more commercial than other shows.

As I flicked through the images from the shows, of which up to now have mainly been from New York(most shows from Paris and Milan will show at the end of January and the beginning of February) I continually saw one look with various takes: the black suit. What’s even more interesting is that I saw it with small punches of red(heels on Julia, gloves on Jandra, and hankerchief on Juana). The black suiting made me think back to the black army that Dolce and Gabbana sent down the runway for Fall 2010…

all I can say though ladies is, suit up.