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Category: Paris

New Male Model Faces Fall 2011


Jack Vanderhart, Jack Manhood, Tomas Guarracino, Tim Meiresone

During the fashion weeks, I took a break from Model Mondays. As a matter of fact I took a break from learning new models period. I refused to frequent the forums, and I was content in staying with the little list that I had built up of names, and not expand. Well now that fashion week is over, I couldn’t deny myself. I had to go back and find a few models to make up for lost times and these are my new male model faces for the Fall 2011 season… well to start us off at least.


Jack Vanderhart– Jack Vanderhart was one of the chosen boys for the show season. When I heard through the grapevine that a new boy had wrangled a Calvin Klein exclusive, and he was based out of Australia with a scar on his cheek, I could only shake the grapevine to see what would fall out. Out fell 16 year old Vanderhart who’s been shot for a Hot Boys & Cute Dogs Calendar, GQ, and Vogue Austalia. There’s just something about that scar on that perfect cheekbone that screams shoot me, and I forsee a strong editorial season for Jack. Jack is represented by VNY(New York) and EMG(Australia)
Fall 2011 Runway-Calvin Klein

Jack Manhood– To be entirely honest I laughed when I heard his name. I laughed while looking at the polaroid and accessing a face that seemed so now, so of the moment that my laugh trailed off. With no particularly stunning credits to his name, besides some work for Topman, Jack has a look that says relevant to me. Maybe a little cuckoo, and if I am then so be it but Mr. Manhood is going to have to be my wild card of the bunch.
Jack is represented in London(FM) and Paris(Success)
Fall 2011 Runway – Cassette Playa, Christopher Shannon

Tomas Guarracino– Mr. Guarracino almost got passed over when I was looking for new faces. The reason was I saw his face in so many top Milan shows I was positive that he had to have a bit of experience. The Calvin Klein Spring 2011 ad is what made me look him up and I found that, he was indeed a newbie but certainly one with a strong future ahead of him.

Tomas is with Bananas(Paris), Wilhelmina, Civilies(Argentina).
Fall 2011 Runway: Hermes, D&G, Ermenegildo Zegna, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, and Robert Geller(he also walked in Buenos Aires Fashion Week).

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Tim Meiresone– The opener of the Prada show, Tim Meiresone has already bagged a coveted runway position. Now whether or not he’ll follow up with the needed editorial season to ensure that he’s one to watch and possibly bank on, we have yet to know. He has surely gotten off to a good start though in a Vogue Hommes Japan editorial. Meiresone already has representation in Paris(Nathalie), Milan(Independent), Copenhagen(Scoop), and where his mother agency is located in Brussels(Dominique).
Fall 2011 runway: Prada, Costume National, Canali, Z Zegna, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin and Cerruti
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PREFALL: Damir Doma 2011


label Damir Doma
season Pre-Fall 2011

As we look forward to today’s Paris Fashion Week schedule of names like Mugler, Gareth Pugh, and Dries Van Noten, I take a moment to look back at the Pre-Fall 2011 collection for Damir Doma who also will be showing today. If Doma’s latest offerings have any connection to what he will offer up today, we should expect models covered from their neck down in geometric and minimalistic blacks and whites. More than likely, Doma will expand on his use of furs in the full collection, roping in more luxury to the very Yves Saint Laurent(though some times it feels like there’s an undercurrent of Helmut Lang) appeal of the collection. Doma seemed to offer up basics for his own muse for Pre-Fall 2011 and for today’s showing, I expect him to provide her with his take on glamour.

SPRING: Petar Petrov 2011

Model: Linus Gustin
Label: Petar Petrov
Season: Spring/Summer 2011

If you follow me on Twitter then you already knew that this was coming. I mean I did warn you by saying “I think that if I lived in Paris I’d try to live the Spring/Summer of 2011 in all Petar Petrov… I’m just saying”. I wasn’t just rambling as I frequently do on Twitter, no I was making a very probable statement. If I were in Paris I’d try to outfit myself in a very simplistic, light, and yet appropriate wardrobe and with the Petar Petrov Spring/Summer 2011 collection, that’s what I’m presented with.

For this collection Petar Petrov, Bulgarian by birth, brings us a light, yet classic menswear collection. While I was a tad puzzled by smiling models on the catwalk, I couldn’t deny the effortless simplicity held within the design. Even the shoe, which reminded me of a leather version of the velvet slippers that have become so popular, spoke to simplicity. The colour palette, ranging from off white to a burgundy, and including light green as well as indigo, evoked a feeling of spring in and of themself, without considering the relaxed quality of the treated cotton fabrics.
While pieces were indeed classic, the styling of the pieces was not as common. Blazers with a crew neck, and sometimes even sans shirt were sent down the runway. Cropped shirts, also made their way onto the floor, at times layered above a crew neck, and at others, just brushing bare skin. The fall of the garments signify comfort as even the denim seems to have some considerable give in it and was paired with everything from what appears to be a sweat shirt, to a blazer, show it’s versatility.
The collection ended to me as a classic menswear collection applied to a slightly new taste palette. With pieces that are interchangeable and a color palette that encourages that it seems to be an entire wardrobe for the season. I only have one question though… are the shoes included??


See the rest of the collection in the galleries.

Open: Adnan Djinovic
Closed: Adnan Djinovic

Safari Opulence

Detail Accessory Shot
Collection: Lanvin Summer/Spring 2011(Paris)
Label: Lanvin
I hope you didn’t think that my fashion week coverage was over! PARIS has only just ended my dear dahlings, and to me Paris is very much like New York! Well, not in terms of aesthetic or philosophy but in terms of the amount of shows I wish to cover. I mean in aesthetic, while New York is all about who’s new, who’s cool, who’s now, Paris looks more to the houses of old. When you hear the terms house DNA or when critics begin to discuss designers rifling through the archives, you’re more than likely discussing some Parisian house. I mean think about the Yves Saint Laurent issue: Pierre Berge wishes to end any further production to perserve the legacy of the YSL brand and the way that he attempts to thwart any designer that has been hired to head the brand, like Stefano Pilati, he makes accessing the archives, which are owned by a fund in his name, difficult. But enough about that, let’s get to Alber Ebaz and this Lanvin collection since we apparently have 3 more years to discuss Pilati and YSL.

My personal aesthetic is pretty minimalistic. I’m not afraid or ashamed to admit it. I love my aesthetic… which is why I attempt to maintain it. But the thing is, I LOVE to take my minimalistic aesthetic and use it to set off some accessories. To really put them on display! I mean since there ideally isn’t much going on with my clothes, besides attention to the cut and fall of them, I can indulge on pieces like the housefly featured above from the first look of the Lanvin collection. I can only say one thing to Elie Top… DIVINE!

The actual collection was marvelous to me. The hair slicked back in a, no nonsense way, it was immediately all about the garments. While I didn’t love every look, I certainly loved most of them. Beginning with a colorblocking motif, the collection goes from billowing to sheath in 8 looks. Skirt suits are then explored, with a slight experimentation of the cut of the arm before the collection begins to take the strands it has set up and weave them together blossoming into bright cocktail dresses. After dropping in a few swimwear looks, the collection goes back to a loser fit, examining the suit which appears to be a rain suit that has been put in a bag, had all the air vacuumed out, and then pulled out of the bag, left in it’s wrinkled state.

After addressing chiffon, the collection seems to step into the more ornate. Looks become jeweled even. The ending, a group set, seemed to come out of no where to me, had I not seen the house fly. The print of the group set evokes a tribal feeling to me, and once I began to mull over that my brain begins to step back into the area of the suits and I begin to consider suiting for a safari or rain forest. This makes me revisit the chiffon until I began to consider it as mosquito netting, and thus I have begun to rework the entire collection with my simple musing. But hey, whether I’m right or not… the collection is still stunning.



Gareth Pugh-An Argument for Fashion Film

Video Presentation
Model: Kristen McMenamy
Director: Rugh Hogben
Label: Gareth Pugh
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011(Paris)

To say I’m not looking for my next Alexander McQueen… would be to blatantly lie. I am. I don’t and never did think that Sarah Burton would be able to fill the void that was created by the industry’s loss of him, so the only thing I could think to do was to find a… supplement. Whether it’s “ethically right or wrong” it’s what I decided that I needed to do to cope, to make me understand that I was now not the only person that saw fashion as an art. I wanted to know that true creativity and innovation was still around and kicking and to be entirely honest, with the Gareth Pugh collection I was given that hope.

Is Gareth Pugh Alexander McQueen? NO! He’s not, and he never will be. But in my opinion Gareth is not afraid to go there. Explaining the concept of there would prove cumbersome… and confusing, but Gareth is there. Maybe it’s because he has a background in costume design. That theatre base has instilled in him this knack for creating theatrics which he does… and does well I might add.

Some saw the most important part of this collection not to be in the cut, not to be in the color, not even to be in the styling or aesthetic but instead… the film that was shown. Until this point, while many have tried, few have made a substantial alternative to the fashion show. A fashion show’s effectiveness at showing the movement of a garment while also allowing the designer to procure the correct mood, all in a time efficient manner, is the reason that we haven’t deviated much for the sanctity of the show. Of course there’s also the sanctity of the front row that editors don’t want to give up.

“I really want to present my clothes to a wider audience and in a more freeing and interesting context than a standard fashion show: film enables me to regain total artistic and creative freedom. I feel very strongly that Fashion Film should not be seen as a secondary medium to live catwalk events, but as a modern alternative.”
“There is still a long way for fashion film to go; to be accepted as a medium in it’s own right, and to be given its place within the fashion industry. I think a lot of designers are just beginning to discover and appreciate its real and unique values”

-Gareth Pugh

With this film for his Spring/Summer 2011 collection Pugh may finally have made a lasting case against “the show”. In an interview on SHOWStudio he expressed his distaste for the fashion show and said that he would be interested in finding an alternative. Starring Kristen McMenamy, the film shows the garments in ways that a show never could. Furthermore, it allows for the designer to make sure that everything is perfect and not done in some hectic manner the way that some shows happen to be. The film doesn’t seem to be cheeky or contrived like some videos are and very much creates a mood. It seems that Gareth Pugh has filled his goals while at the same time creating a stunningly strong, smooth, neutral collection that of course has me lusting after each piece.

Dries Van Noten is Inspirational

Collection: Dries Van Noten
Season: Spring/Summer 2011 (Paris)
To quote Candy Pratts Price, “September is the January of fashion” and I find myself sitting here on the last day of the month finally experiencing that moment of transcendence that I await every fashion season. At this point I have trudged through the fashion weeks of New York, London, and Milan found, much to my disappointment, that the collections were quite clinical to put it politely. Of course there were a few exceptions—Marc Jacobs, Marchesa, and Carolina Herrera in NY, Burburry in London, and Gucci in Milan, but as a whole I found myself desperately underwhelmed. I was on the verge of giving up this season, finding that I could barely even bring myself to look at another runway review, and then it happened: I stumbled upon Dries Van Noten. Finally I had found what I was looking for so fervently—inspiration. Simplicity, elegance, and glamour all rolled into one. I found in this collection the same aesthetic that was perpetuated by my biggest fashion influence Mademoiselle Coco Chanel, a simplistic femininity peppered with elements of men’s tailoring. The end result is a confident, sexy, elegant lady who knows what she wants and takes it for herself. In other words the Coco Chanel of today.


For this collection Dries was inspired by the paintings of Belgian artist Jef Verheyen. The designer found himself captivated by the artist’s ability to capture light in his work and therefore set out to accomplish the same feat in his Spring/Summer Womenswear collection. The collection was a masterful display of beautifully feminine blouses covered in iridescent paillettes nestled beneath dramatically oversized menswear inspired blazers. Ornate patterns taken from Chinese ceramics were applied to sumptuous white silks and then bleached away to create an enchanting ombre effect. One of my favorite moments from the collection came the form of look 49—a black oversized blazer over a pewter blouse, covered in paillettes that tied at the neck. Placed underneath was a simple white skirt that appeared to be nothing more or less than the bottom end of a men’s dress shirt as it appears when left un-tucked. The look summed up what I feel is the essence of the entire collection and I later learned that this was one of the designers favorite looks as well.
The accessories of the collection anchored the soft elegance of the silks and paillettes. The shoes were done in soft suede in muted tones with chunky heels. The glasses and handbags were sleek and modern as well were the jewelry pieces. All of these elements come together with the clothes like the sections of an orchestra to produce the sartorial symphony that was the Dries Van Noten womenswear collection for spring/summer 2011.

See the collection in it’s entirety on Style.

MARQUIS BIAS


Marquis Bias is an expert in fashion and style based in Columbia, South Carolina. He is well known throughout South Carolina for his work as a fashion stylist and creative director as well as his position as the President of the Fashion Board at the University of South Carolina.

Follow him on Twitter.

"I got the POWER!"

Collection: Chanel Couture

Season: Fall 2010/Winter 2011

Photo by: MykroMag

Power. To me, that’s what Karl Lagerfeld’s entire Fall 2010/Winter 2011 Chanel Couture show came down to. An exercise and showing of raw unbridled power. I’m not sure what tipped the show over to this point… maybe it was:
  • The oversized golden lion that was front and center, and dwarfed everything else.
  • The concept to send down 63 models… just because
  • Having each individual piece dripping with exquisite jewels and gems
  • Doing all of this while knowing that you are Uncle Lagerfeld, a legend in the industry and to some a godsend, so the criticisms, if they did come would come from people like writers at Marketing Weekly. That translates into unheeded criticisms of course.
See the rest of the post below the clip.

http://beemp3.com/player/player.swf

Model: Nora von Waldstatten
Styling: Simon Rasmussen
Photographer: Simon Procter
Wearing: Chanel Couture
Publication: Qvest #42
Song: “Power” by Kanye West feat. Jay-Z and Swizz Beats
When I first viewed the collection I saw excess, pure and simple. Why did Karl need 63 looks.. and then at that why those 63. Some of them don’t even look good. For example, one particular look seemed to be a dead slimy fish with droopy scales to me. Another one… to me it resembled electric eels and all of their… ugliness. Oh, and don’t let me start on the boots. I was just so disgusted… and for 63 looks, I became more and more disgusted. Well, time went by, and although I didn’t ever like that slimy fish dress, nor the electric eel look, the boots did grow on me…a little. And once the remix to Power came out, by Kanye West featuring Jay-Z and Swizz Beats, the entire collection just clicked for me. I went back and knew exactly what I wanted to write about it.
I couldn’t believe that I saw only this power and was disgusted by it. Certain brands are powerful and because of this, every once in a while they feel the need to flex that muscle. Plus, for a Parisian brand… I should have expected this. If New York fashion is about what’s new, what’s in, who’s making the new face, Paris is very much about the legacies in the industry and the fixtures. Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel CLEARLY are fixtures in the international fashion industry so calling them dusty just because their profits were down 11% would have to come from someone outside of the industry. Unless you’re Imran Amed, and you’re studying how these older brands will eventually fail because they refuse to adapt to changing times, if you’re in the fashion industry… Chanel to you is a pioneer. I mean, as one of the brands that assisted in making the deconstruction motif what it is today, Chanel is not a brand to scoff at.

Well in case you haven’t noticed, there is a definite change in the way that I will be blogging from now on. Because I combined both blogs I feel as if now is the time to go ahead and do this. My aim is still to provide informative content but I also will add my own personal spin…. I guess like most bloggers do. You really didn’t see my face much before but… well now you may. I actually used to not like taking pictures but now I have these spells where I enjoy it, but I’m also sometimes forcing myself… Oh and yes, I am holding American Vogue, the September Issue with Halle Berry on the cover. How can you talk about power without talking about the publication that just put out a 726 page TOME? You can’t!

See the entire Chanel Collection at the 803 Gallery.

COUTURE: Jean Paul Gaultier FW 2010/2011

Models: Karlie Kloss(Next), Jessica Stam(IMG), Emina Cunmulaj(Marilyn), Thana Kuhnen(Nathalie)
Collection: Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 2010/2011 in Paris
So Jean Paul Gaultier was at the least… sultry! Whereas it wasn’t the overt couture designs that I had hoped for, it seems that everyone is currently scaling back so I decided to take what I could get. Looks like Jessica Stam’s brought an instant smile to my face. Maybe it was because of the color, I’m not sure but all I know is that on instant sight, my pearly whites were showing. Looks like Karlie Kloss’s, who opened, were strong, feminine, and still sexy. Of course there were those looks that may not have been exactly wearable outside of costume event besides for women like Lady Gaga and Daphne Guiness, others like Thana Kuhnen had the right dash of glamour, but laid back approach that I LOVE!

See the rest of the collection here.

COUTURE: Valentino F/W 2010/2011

Models: Ajak Deng, Sara Blomqvist(Viva), Jenny Sinkaberg(IMG) Jac(IMG)
Collection: Valentino FW 2010/2011 Couture in Paris
So, in an effort to cover shows quickly, we’re back at this condensed format. In case you don’t follow me on Twitter, I’ve been doing alot of things off the blog, so none of my various channels have been receiving any love. Also, if you’ve been following me you’ll see that I was confused about the couture shows and what season was showing, but now I’m back on. Let’s jump right into the Valentino show though. Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri put on a mediocre show for me as a whole. Some pieces individually, like Ajak Deng’s and Jac’s looks above, were pieces that were personal favorites, while others like Sara Blomqvist’s, were to me soooo Valentino. Subliminally I felt small reminders to Alexis Mabille collections of seasons past, like Jenny Sinkaberg’s, but on the whole I actually liked those pieces. Some of the more longer pieces though, especially pieces with skirting included seemed to fit a little awkwardly.

See the rest of the collection here.

COUTURE: Givenchy F/W 2010/2011

One thing is for sure over at Givenchy, Even though they may be scaling back the number of looks, and presenting it all in show fashion, they are in NO way skimping on couture!! Maybe everyone should stop doing shows if the result will be returning couture to what it should be rather than having what seems to be just a new week of ready to wear… but enough about the other collections, let’s talk about the glitz, the glamour… and the DRAMA of the Givenchy collection!
See the rest of the collection and coverage below the clip.

I LOVED Givenchy from F/W 2009 collection, and I love this collection as well. The color palette is very much, neutrals and I’m alright with that. Why, because the garments are BEAUTIFUL, and well black is only used for one look. Was I eerily reminded of the somber Alexander McQueen show from months ago, yes. But that’s just something that I’ll have to get through as time goes by. Every room with golden frames on the walls can’t take me back to that place.

All in all the collection was wonderful. Although at some points I was wondering if there was a Cher influence, I still got through it. I know this post doesn’t seem as invested as others do but there really isn’t much to say. The pieces were stunning, and I have to run to go finish preparations for a project that I should be bringing to you guys soon. Hopefully you’ll like it.