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Category: paris menswear

SPRING: Petar Petrov 2011

Model: Linus Gustin
Label: Petar Petrov
Season: Spring/Summer 2011

If you follow me on Twitter then you already knew that this was coming. I mean I did warn you by saying “I think that if I lived in Paris I’d try to live the Spring/Summer of 2011 in all Petar Petrov… I’m just saying”. I wasn’t just rambling as I frequently do on Twitter, no I was making a very probable statement. If I were in Paris I’d try to outfit myself in a very simplistic, light, and yet appropriate wardrobe and with the Petar Petrov Spring/Summer 2011 collection, that’s what I’m presented with.

For this collection Petar Petrov, Bulgarian by birth, brings us a light, yet classic menswear collection. While I was a tad puzzled by smiling models on the catwalk, I couldn’t deny the effortless simplicity held within the design. Even the shoe, which reminded me of a leather version of the velvet slippers that have become so popular, spoke to simplicity. The colour palette, ranging from off white to a burgundy, and including light green as well as indigo, evoked a feeling of spring in and of themself, without considering the relaxed quality of the treated cotton fabrics.
While pieces were indeed classic, the styling of the pieces was not as common. Blazers with a crew neck, and sometimes even sans shirt were sent down the runway. Cropped shirts, also made their way onto the floor, at times layered above a crew neck, and at others, just brushing bare skin. The fall of the garments signify comfort as even the denim seems to have some considerable give in it and was paired with everything from what appears to be a sweat shirt, to a blazer, show it’s versatility.
The collection ended to me as a classic menswear collection applied to a slightly new taste palette. With pieces that are interchangeable and a color palette that encourages that it seems to be an entire wardrobe for the season. I only have one question though… are the shoes included??

See the rest of the collection in the galleries.

Open: Adnan Djinovic
Closed: Adnan Djinovic


SPRING 2011: John Galliano

Collection: John Galliano SS 2011
Photos by: Jak and Jil

When I saw this picture of backstage at the John Galliano Spring/Summer 2011 show from the Jak and Jil blog, I knew that no matter how long it had been since the actual show, I had to post. Had I already admitted to myself, the love for the show?? Yes! Had I professed it on Twitter… I’m almost positive, but I had to express it to the masses in extended for. So with the assistance of the first image from Jak and Jil, the next three from Sonny Photos, and the smaller ones from Style.com, let’s delve into this show and the greatness that it brought.

See the rest of our coverage below the clip

Collection: John Galliano SS 2011
Photos By: Sonny Photos
So I saw the collection the first time and truly I said oh Galliano you devil. I love it, but I just kept going. I didn’t post about it. And then when the Dior Couture show came and Mr. Galliano came out for his finale walk I kind of went insane. I LOVED it! Can I put my finger on particularly why? Maybe it was because within a matter of weeks we went from seeing it in a collection, in the conceptual mode to actually being worn in a more natural way. To tell the truth I wanted to rip the veiled boater off of Mr. Galliano’s head. I was ready to wear it to lunch. Actually I think that’s exactly the reason I loved it.

Collection: John Galliano SS 2011
Photos By: Sonny Photos
The collection featured belted jackets and drop crotch pants. Whereas skinny legged pants were the style in seasons passed, it’s time to…. “let the boys breathe” if you will. And why not do it in the luxurious and glamourous pieces from the John Galliano collection. There’s always something about a Galliano collection that strikes me as glamorous! Well not just a Galliano collection, but a Galliano production. Maybe it’s the glitter tans and drawn on abs that inject a side of sex with the glamour, but whatever it is, that same aura is in this collection as well.

Collection: John Galliano SS 2011
Photos By: Sonny Photos
Whether it’s a lush, luxurious haute couture women’s collection, or a a luxurious yet comfortable, and still relevant men’s collection John Galliano has an eye and hand for design… but who am I telling? His productions are astounding, his work for this collection is virtually impeccable… ugh… he must be a cousin right?
Collection: John Galliano SS 2011
Photos From: Style.com

SS11: Hermes

Relaxed, light, supple, fresh. Those are all the terms that came time mind as I went through the Hermes summer/spring 2011 collection. Maybe it was the white, or just the relaxed nature of the cardigans, open shirts, and just the movement of the garments in general, I don’t know. I felt that minty taste in my mouth after viewing the collection, like I’d just been cleansed, I’d just been refreshed, and all from scanning the looks.

See the rest of the collection and more coverage under the clip.
Color is used, but again it’s used sparingly. I believe I can detect another elephant trunk leg usage but this time it’s not as evident. Whereas Raf Simons utilized material that would make the leg evident, and in some cases some could even call it imposing, Veronique Nichanian over at Hermes made sure that even the leg was relaxed. And it’s funny that I don’t feel like it’s alot of lost material. It enhances the look.

See the rest of the collection here.

SS11: Lanvin

Alber Ebaz and Lucas Ossendrijver have my favorite men’s collection for summer/spring 2011 so far, hands DOWN!! In Paris, muscles are out, and at Lanvin statement pieces for men are in… and they are SOOOOO IN! Lanvin is talking neutrality, bright colors, prints, draping, bags… ugh, I want it ALL! Even thought my dancer thighs and calves may not fit… I still want it ALL! This nomadic/gypsy vibe that I’m getting for the collection… gives me all I want, need, and desire!
See the rest of the collection, and more coverage below.
I’m not even sure where to begin. I’ve been a fan of Alber, and to be completely transparent with you I’d never heard of Lucas Ossendrijver. Do I feel jipped?? Of course. Does that mean I’m going to be reading things more carefully… you bet! This collection has everything that I’m looking for while not ever addressing the things that I have mentioned that I’m looking for. I said I want white pieces and there’s no white, but there’s still color. The pops of color aren’t just loud pops though, they seem to have been muted just the right amount to make them pieces that will get noticed but at the same time, they aren’t gaudy in the least.

See the rest of the collection here.

SS11: Thom Browne

Thom Browne…Thom, Thom, Thom. So I’m flicking through the pictures and I think… Why do I get clownish vibes? And then I know, it’s the lips. Everyone else may laud it as chic, as pushing boundaries. Oh, they bring out the shades, which are feminine and an entirely different paragraph in their own right. A million excuses can be made, but to me we have entered into a zone with the lips that has pushed past art and is… frankly clownish. The gold streak in the hair, fine… I actually loved it, but the lips… it was a bit much for me.

See more coverage and more of the collection below.

But I continued to flick and the next thing I thought was… Miu Miu for men!!! WOOT! Now, it’s bad that the part I see as good is good because it’s a man’s take on a collection that was already done but, I don’t really care. I LOVE that collection and so there’s really no surprise that I love this one as well. If only I were the male version of Tavi, I would try to get my hands on that suit and photograph myself, EVERYWHERE, and send it to EVERYONE. I would become a model. Because I thought that I was fit to be a model, no just because I wouldn’t want to let someone else into the suit… that’s how much I love it.

I will admit, the cut of the sleeves surprised me a little. During my upbringing my father would quickly have thrown a suit out had the sleeves fit like that on me. “That jacket is too small for you boy. That’s how it was made?? People aren’t going to know that they are just going to say you have a jacket on that’s 2 years too small!” I can hear him now. As I look at it more closely though, the jacket brings more attention to the pieces that men have taken pride in for so long but haven’t been able to showcase. Our cufflinks are sometimes hidden by our jacket sleeves, the richness of our shirts and the quality therein suffer the same fate. With this new cut, that will never happen again. Of course, if you buy the accompanying shorts, you can’t be afraid to bare your knees.

SPRING 2011: Dior Homme

The jacket above is my FAVORITE piece of the entire collection. Maybe it’s because I was obsessed with Batman and his cape when I was younger, maybe it had something to do with me always loving to put on a robe and running through the house to watch it billow behind me(don’t tell people that before I had a robe I was doing it with a sheet). That actually reminds me of those days when my grandmother would sew things for me. She’s teaching me how to sew currently… but I haven’t gone over for my second lesson(don’t tell anyone!). This simple garment brings all that to mind with it’s fluidity and yet at the same time it’s structured lapels. Oh I LOVE… to me, it’s Dior Homme at it’s finest.

See more coverage and more of the collection under the clip
Other than that though… Dior Homme was mediocre. It seems that they shall continue with the “All Black Everything” trend even through Spring of 2011. I am not saying that I hate the idea, but I would encourage them to at least come out with a couple of other colors. I believe an associate of mine, Marquis Bias(stylist/president of the Fashion Board in Columbia), said it best… I’m kind of over the monochromatic color palettes when they come in the noir variety. That being said, had this entire collection been done in white, I think I would have NO problems with a monochromatic scheme.
I do love the minimal detailing on the pieces though. It does make them pop. One detail that I didn’t particularly like though… were the shoe/sandal things. They were just not my cup of tea. when I first saw them my mind juxtaposed them with a rain boot, that had crisscross detailing. It was beautiful. Is it sad that my brain automatically substituted them for something else, yes… is that a sign… probably so. The design just seems to take the whole wearing socks with sandals thing to another level that I presently can’t deal with.

See the rest of the collection here.

SPRING 2011: Raf Simons

Sooo, apologies all around. I’ve been running around town finally getting into the industry(YIPPPEEE) and in addition I’ve been doing a fair share of staring at the computer monitor wasting time(I hear your boos I hear them well) and so my posting of the menswear shows, Paris and Milan, has been thrown off. I’ve decided to go in a different direction so I’m going to post but you may notice that it’s not so much me trying to post the shows just to post the shows, but instead, I’m posting them for a bit of reflection.

See the rest of the coverage and more of the collection

I’ve been a fan of Raf Simons for a little while now. If I’m not mistaken I’ve read my fair share of interviews and articles about him. To attempt to spout off random facts like any paid journalist would do would frankly cause me to sit and think about the past when I clearly should be looking into the future, into Summer/Spring 2011 and what the line will bring us. Especially in terms of the diversity of cut for the male bottom while not betraying the clean and precise aesthetic that is Raf Simons.

This collection applies color sparingly, but when it does it is nothing short of beautiful. Well in a masculine way… you know what I’m saying. I personally couldn’t get over the pants and shorts though. At one point I was questioning whether I was looking at shorts, a skirt… or worse, it’s inbred cousin, a SKORT! After that I was peering at what seemed to be runners shorts… which I’ve seen on one too many bike riders out on the mountain during the school year. The silhouette of the belted jacket was familiar to me although it does seem to have a tad bit more relaxation than pass collections, but what really struck me was the larger than elephant trunk pants… I want every pair! Some are the same color?? I don’t care send them ALL!

Oh and fellow blogger, Marcus Mason from Confessions of a Fashion Addict just tweeted about going to the medical uniform store and buying doctors shirts because he can’t afford Raf or Prada… I’ll be RIGHT behind ya.

See the rest of the collection here.

Fall 2010: Lanvin

Nice baby Nice, the boys were looking right. Metallics, street inspired wear, and the male clutch bag. Lanvin did a pretty good job with line. Love the mixture of relaxed and fitted looks. From tuxedos to blazers, this line included something that every man would wear. The neat thing about this collection was that some of the trenchcoats had removable arms. I favored the fringed sweaters and the fitted feminine like sweaters as well. Thought it all looked well put together it had a slouchy worn in appeal that was cool. The collection flowed well together and almost told a story of a man in different parts of his life.

Fall 2010: Kenzo

Kenzo, give me more please. Love that he was inspired to use lots of tweed, plaid, and houndstooth. I love houndstooth a lot & he did a great job incorporating it into his line. It was obvious he got the gray memo but seemed like he wanted to add hints of red here and there. Black, while, gray, & red always look great together. Another fav of mine for this collection was that most of the guys had on a fedora, its made them look sophisticated and mature. The large overcoats and trench coats were made of fine tailoring and the some of the sweaters the guys wore were pretty. I enjoyed how he made some pajama looking pants and paired it with a suit jacket, a different look. Over all I enjoyed the Fall 2010 Kenzo collection, it was to me another refreshing line for Paris fashion week.

Written by Courtney

Fall 2010: Walter Van Beirendonck

Just when things we starting to get a little boring with color and concept, Walter Van Beirendonck came and shook things up. So far its been seeming like I choose the good shows to cover. All this color makes me happy. I’m not quite sure where Walter’s mind was with this collection but I’m almost sure it was somewhere up in space. I loved the colors that were used, he didn’t just focus on primary colors, he also brought in purple and greens. Jumpers, chill sport wear, and over sized ear covers…Walter took his audience into space with a bang.

Written by Courtney