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Category: new york

PRE-FALL: Calvin Klein Collection 2011


model Simona Andrejic
label
Calvin Klein Collection
season
Pre-Fall 2011

Francisco Costa has been pushing minimalism and clean silhouettes for seasons now, so it’s no surprise that he’s done so pre-fall 2011. With a long, almost curveless silhouette, the 19 pieces look to be a shell around the Calvin girl, clean, fresh faces. Using very minimal neutral tones, the pieces come off as iconic and timeless. Viewers are left with an impression, silhouette first, shade later. It sort of makes me think of nuns.
And of course what a more suitable time to look back at the pre-fall collection, seeing as the rumors about the exclusives for the Fall showing are beginning to make their rounds. We know with a special certainty that the exclusive slot at a Klein show (especially an exclusive open or close-just ask David Agbodji who bookended the show before his explosion onto the scene) is coveted in the industry by agent and model alike.

source | style

PRE-FALL: 3.1 Phillip Lim


model Victoire Mac-Dauxerre
label 3.1 Phillip Lim
season Pre-Fall 2011

Phillip Lim is known for his effortless cool. More importantly 3.1 Phillip Lim is known for being affordably cool at the same time. Presenting a pre-fall 2011 collection that is the epitome of simplistic elegance and femininity, Lim progresses with his wildly successful business. 40 looks strong, the collection pushes forward a rich color palette of navy blues and cognac as well as the cremes, tans, browns, and grays that we’ve come to know Lim for. While the collection does feature a few season trends like draping, leather, and sheer, the voice is in no way lost.

source | style, bof

PREFALL 2011: Fur


Models(from left): Ksenia Kahnovich, Tara Gil, Julia Saner, Lisanne de Jong
Labels(from left): Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Donna Karan, J Mendel

So pre-fall is a weird season. I mean it is a working season, this is true so many brands make alot of money off of it, but it’s very peculiar. Why, because the name doesn’t really tell you what it’s for. Spring collections are for Spring, Fall collections are for fall. Resort/Cruise collections are for more tropical locales… like resorts and cruises. Maybe I’m wrong but in the 4 seasons I learned in school there was no pre-fall. Because of this, designers treat the season in different ways, and while some show bikinis, others show heavier pieces… like furs.

Carolina Herrera to me always makes beautiful pieces. That’s really the only way I can describe them, as beautiful. The hats from Spring 2011 sent me into convulsions, in only the best of ways of course. While this collection didn’t quite do the same, it has grown on me a since first seeing it, the more voluminous pieces working down my resistance quicker than the rest.

The Oscar de la Renta collection on the other hand, which I was able to catch the livestream of, really was something that I instantly liked. From the first look, which featured the top backwards on the model, all the way through to what I can only describe as the Indian Princess ball gowns, including every bow, and evening jumpsuit in between, I was practically in lust. It may be a bit weird, but I found myself almost frothing at the simplistic luxury found in the look featured above.

Donna Karan showed two collections during her Pre-Fall collection: the first being a new collection entitled “The Casual” and the second being her main Donna Karan collection. Based on her 7 basic pieces, Donna Karan managed to bring something a bit new to her customer, something that I can only explain as… casual. The layering, the furs, the color palette, everything pointed towards this motif and I’d be a liar if I said that I wasn’t a fan.

I have saved what may have been the best collection in my opinion till last(although not purposefully). The J Mendel collection spoke red carpet moments to me. Continuing with the silhouette mapped out in the Spring collection, Gilles Mendel presents us with a Romanesque architectural collection with an emphasis on draping(I hope that came out right). The furs… the furs… what can I say about the furs? There is nothing to say to adequately describe the beauty embedded within them, and at the same time there’s so much to say about how the inherent masculinity of them contradicts with the femininity in the gowns. Again I can only say… red carpet moments.

PREFALL 2011: The Drape


Models(from left): Yulia Terentieva, unknown, Katie Fogarty, and Hanne Gaby Odiele
Labels(from left): Doo.Ri, Nicole Miller, Ports 1961, and Rag & Bone

I actually didn’t think that finding trends would be this difficult. I find myself going back from show to show observing and comparing, observing and comparing in ways that I never have before. Usually it’s very click, click, click, bam, I have it. Now I have to really look at the shows and find things that are not only going to be apparent to me but apparent to you as well and in an attempt to include as many shows as possible, I really have to be paying attention. But enough of that, let’s finally actually speak to this draping trend that seems to be happening.

Doo. Ri and Rag & Bone happen to be old time faves of mine, Doo. Ri happening to be more recent a fave than Rag & Bone. With the pre-fall collection Doo. Ri seems to stray a little from what she presented for the Spring in color, palette. She stays very true to her technical skill, creating garments that are seemingly molded onto Yulia’s body, as Ports 1961 did on Katie. Rag & Bone on the other hand gave Hanne Gaby Odiele a little more room to move in a sexy, draped cocktail dress that was arguably the most dressed up piece presented in their pre-fall collection. The collection seemed to evoke a Brooklyn girl, comfortable with long nights and late mornings. This contrasted greatly with the architectually dressed, artsy girl wearing Nicole Miller. With a wide legged pant and mostly dark wardrobe the muse seems to be a mix between Rad Hourani and Christopher Kane.

PREFALL 2011: Black Suits


Models(from left): Julia Saner, Hyoni Kang, Jandra Dziaugyte, Juana BergaLabels: Jason Wu, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Elie Tahari, Jenni Kayne

It is in fact true, the season that we have come to know as Pre-Fall has begun. Well the season hasn’t begun, but show season has. While I have to make apologies for not being around that often I think the best thing to do in this case is to not harp on it and stride along, and into the business that we must attend to for today.

So I wasn’t sure how I wanted to cover Pre-Fall shows. As we approach a new year there of course will be some changes. I’ve decided to do it this way though, in more of a trendier type of way since preseason shows(or presentations which are more common) in general happen to be a bit more commercial than other shows.

As I flicked through the images from the shows, of which up to now have mainly been from New York(most shows from Paris and Milan will show at the end of January and the beginning of February) I continually saw one look with various takes: the black suit. What’s even more interesting is that I saw it with small punches of red(heels on Julia, gloves on Jandra, and hankerchief on Juana). The black suiting made me think back to the black army that Dolce and Gabbana sent down the runway for Fall 2010…

all I can say though ladies is, suit up.

Transcending norms…

Label: Rad by Rad Hourani
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 at New York Fashion Week
Photographer: Shannon Sinclair

There are some brands that I love but that don’t just… roll off the tongue when discussing brand favorites. Rad by Rad Hourani is one such brand. Since the first time I saw pieces from the brand, which was with 160 Grams by way of The Fashionisto, I’ve developed a deep hunger for the brand then and wanted alot more. I began to follow it loosely, understanding that there were supposedly two different lines; Rad Hourani and Rad by Rad Hourani(although I never saw a differentiation between the two).

The brand is a fave. Multi use, gender neutral, season transcendent clothing is a revolution. It represents what it essentially is: clothing to be molded and shaped by the wearer. Can I have one of every piece?


See the rest of the collection in the gallery.

Did I Make It?

Talk about hectic. So the day of the Peter Som show I had to work. I don’t know if I explained my job to you guys but it involves me waking at 4:15. Anywho I was at work and then I proceed to begin driving to pick someone up when I realize that it’s after 9:15 so Peter Som should be starting on Milk Made. What do I do? I of course open my laptop while driving and search for Wi-Fi while driving around downtown Columbia. Safe? No, but I do it for fashion! Anywho I finally pulled into the public library and sprinted(I would love to say like a gazelle but I have only just realized my legs are not long enough to sprint like a gazelle and so I just kind of ran fast) into the library and plopped down on the floor only to find that Richland County Public Library blocks Milk Made. I tracked down the feed on AOL, and caught the tail end of a spectacular show!

See our actual coverage as well as images below the clip.

But now that I’ve gotten the discovery of this show out of the way, let’s get to the coverage! Well, everybody may think I’m totally insane for saying this but this collection gave me SO much Dior Couture Fall 2010. I mean this yellow dress reminds me of this dress a little. Of course, more wearable. But then again every time I see a skinny belt that pops I tend to think Dior Couture Fall 2010 because of this WONDERFUL tulip. Let’s move on though. The collection was wonderfully colored, and tastefully so. Taste was also imbedded into the amount of skin shown. While tummies may be bare for spring, Peter Som has ladies covering up their belly buttons with a high waist. The heel is strappy and causes the waif like models to teeter. I guess, for some labels, we haven’t yet exhausted the height of the heel.

See the rest of the collection.

Vena Cava is Lazy at Milk


Yes, it has begun. Nicholas K. was the first official show in Lincoln Center of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, and while I don’t yet have those images, what I do have for you are screenshots from the first show in Milk Studios. I’m watching shows live, yes which means that my coverage shall be quick… well hopefully. Anyway, let’s get into it.

See some of the images from the collection, and see a schedule for other livestreams that are happening today.

The collection that Vena Cava sent down the runway for their Spring 2011 collection was soft in color, fabric, and mood. Even the models walked at a slower pace than normal making everything more about leisure. While the conceptual art that was hanging in the middle of the runway did catch my attention, I was more distracted by the flowy fabrics, and muted color tones. Again we find no stilettos but instead more wedge like heels. I loved the style of the show and even though I wasn’t physically in attendance I could still feel a relaxation that flowed from the entire collection.



P.S. Don’t miss the rest of the shows. Here are the ones being live streamed today:

Whip Your Hair!

Collection: Willow
Season: Spring 2011
Location: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week (New York Fashion Week)
Song: Whip My Hair by Willow Smith
And it has begun. Like a whirlwind, Mercedes Benz Fashion Week is upon us… ohkay maybe the whirlwind part has yet to hit us but three shows are up and out at least: Willow(featured above), Organic by John Patrick, and Sanchin + Babi. Now we’re not going to say for sure that they are barometers for the industry but I would like to point out the distinct similarities in Organic and Sanchin. I mean muted colors, draping… the pretty much absence of the actual stiletto..it seems as if the fashion pendulum is taking a hefty swing away from the stripper heel, as well as the bodycon that had oh so quickly taken the industry by storm. But out of all of the collections I saw tonight… Willow was the best.

See more information about Fashion Week below the clip

So with fashion weeks upcoming there is undoubtedly a MOUND of catty-ness to be had. I mean fashion is high school, and September is like the August of school. It’s the time that the lines are drawn, cliques are formed, and we find out just who everyone is who’s important. Yeah yeah yeah, there’s the fashion weeks in February but those are like our return from Christmas Break. You know who’s who… and besides a few changes, everyone stays in their lane. But what some people don’t realize about New York is that unlike most other cities that have ONE fashion week… New York is blessed with two. Mercedes Benz fashion Week, that everyone fawns over, has a edgier, artsier… more presentation/culture driven counterpart: Milk Made, a series of shows sponsored by Milk Studios and MAC. Their SS10 video had me feeling like a giddy school girl wanting to run from the cheerleaders and into the shadows to her true friends.

But now onto the things that our industry is more known for… DRAMA. Yes, that is a screenshot of the new Vogue.com which is now no longer associated with Style.com. I’d like to say that while the layout is VICIOUS, it can never replace Style.com which is more of a resource to me, while Vogue.com is something that I would lazily peruse. But this isn’t to say that Style.com doesn’t feel any pressure… I mean they did happen to release their iPad app today, which happens to be the same day that Vogue.com officially relaunched. This isn’t the only drama though, I mean it’s Fashion Week! There’s things like the Jews who are on holiday until Friday at sundown, so they can’t attend shows, models who accidentally blab to WWD that they are walking womenswear for designers like Tom Ford who haven’t yet confirmed that they are showing womenswear, oh and the front row… the coveted front row! There have been so many masthead changes that PR companies are going to find it a nightmare to sit everyone in a seat that shows their importance but doesn’t place them by either a former employer or employee that may or may not ruffle their feathers.

P.S. What are we going to do with feathers for Spring 2011?? I say leave them on the birds!

RESORT: Derek Lam 2011

So, while looking for the next show package to post I noticed that Elite Milan was up. I immediately thought, how appropriate. I love Milan Menswear… and the show package is soccer themed so why not… I’ll tell you why not. The package was 228 pictures strong! Now while I think it’s amazing that 113 models from one agency alone will shortly be descending on the city of Milan… uploading their pictures 5 at a time… isn’t going to cut it. And so instead we are here with Derek Lam and his collection for Resort 2011. A nice quaint, 16 looks :).

See the rest of our coverage and the collection below the clip
Call me stuck up, call me whatever you like really, but there are certain things I adore in fashion and certain things I wish would just GET LOST! I mean Mr. Lam and I don’t have an ongoing relationship but looking at this collection I could TELL that if we did it would be a tumultuous one. I either LOVED a look or HATED it.
Pieces that I loved included reinterpreted basics, like the t-shirt above, and pieces that utilized draping, like the piece below. Mr. Lam, in my humble opinion, seems to thrive in those simplistic moments, while floundering helplessly in the more… ornate times. For example, the purple frock with the many ruffles… I’m not sure I can quite express my discontent with it. It’s too much, just too frivolous for my tastes and furthermore… FOR THE STATE THE ECONOMY IS NOW IN. You want to return to your staples, a return to minimalism… and I find that Mr. Lam flourishes when he does.

Models: Megan McNierny(IMG NY), Ksenia Kahnovich(IMG Paris)