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Category: milan menswear

SPRING: Prada Menswear 2011

Models(from left to right): Luka Badnjar, Theo Hall, Nicolas Ripoll, Fenn Sean,Christian Ochsenfahrt
Source:
WWD
Label: Prada
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 Menswear

It was probably backwards of me to blog about the Prada Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear show before the menswear show. I mean Miuccia Prada herself even admitted to using the simplicity that constituted the Menswear collection as a starting point for the Womenswear. Well to be entirely honest, I’d stared at these faces for entirely too long and just knew what I wanted to say for the womenswear collection, and it felt so joyous. And although the collections share a similar color palette, to me the emotions they provoke are like night and day.

Watching the closing for the show, the versatility of the color palette is evident. One may be a tad confused as to what season we’re in, seeing as sleeves on the whole were long, but shorts proliferated through the collection. To sum up the collection in one word, I must revert back to Andre Leon Talley, “Clinical”. But of course not the bad kind, like when he was referring to Calvin Klein, but the good kind, when he was referring to Isabella.

Clinical and institutional are the words that describe the Prada Spring/Summer 2011 Menswear collection best. The words describe everything, from the scrub like tops, to the actual runway venue. Composed of concrete and glass that seemed to emanate light themselves, the runway itself seemed as if it were a hall pulled out of a clinical institution. The uniformity of the looks didn’t stray; three pieces suits, which were surprisingly slim, and striped sweaters were the order of the day.
I would be remiss if I didn’t point out that there was a play on proportions as well. We see three piece suit and think of it being a little bulkier than say, a simple shirt and pant. For Prada, this isn’t the case. The tops, mainly untucked, ranged from Clement Chabernaud‘s Under Armour like top that was layered atop a dress shirt and tie but still seemed like a second skin, to Tom Fonteyn‘s denim scrubs layered over a dress shirt and tie of the same material.

Accessories Shot
Source: Love Magazine
Label: Prada
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 Menswear

The collection, which featured stacked shoes which were actually composed of a combination of 3 different shoes, is sure to be an editorial favorite. The thing is, which season should the pieces be shot for? In the cover shoot for the latest issue of Hero Magazine, Luka Badnjar, who opened and closed the show, is wearing the pieces amidst what seems to be fall leaves, and it doesn’t seem one ounce out of place. Maybe the Prada man believes in global warming and knows in something that we don’t. I’d really use any excuse to get my hands on a piece though.

Models(left to right): Lucas Mascarini, Albert Krarup, Linus Gustin, James Smith
Photographer: Sonny
Label: Prada
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 Menswear

See the collection in the galleries.

Opened: Luka Badnjar
Closed: Luka Badnjar
Exclusive: Luka Badnjar,Peter Beyer, Pierre-Harald Leducq

SPRING: Calvin Klein Menswear 2011

Backstage Photo
Photographer:
Sonny Vandevelde
Label: Calvin Klein
Season: Summer/Spring 2011(Milan)

So when the menswear shows came I told myself, I would not stress myself out over reviewing them. I would get to them in due time… I mean I do have until January before shows start up again. It is now November, and I’m beginning back in on them and first up is Calvin Klein. The most memorable part to most were the cropped tops, and to others, they were the shorts that David Abodji wore that left little to the imagination. To me, I wanted to see the shoes. Peculiar, yes, but I was just sort of in awe of this shoe that seemed like it was attempting to be a cross between a dress shoe and sneaker. It was even used as both in the show. So of course I went on a hunt for said shoe and couldn’t find it until I went to Sonny’s blog. There they were, sitting at the bottom of his images. I only smiled.


So I’ve arranged the 4 looks that I’ve decided to display on the blog in a very specific way. It’s all about the amount of skin shown. Awkward way to organize, I’m sure but I mean it was the first thing I thought of. The collection which is most certainly at least a tad inspired by activewear, is a new take on minimalism. While still retaining minimalistic ideals of mostly monochromatic pieces Itallo Zuccelli begins to rework very basic pieces by cropping them. Jackets nor tanks were kept from his shears. When I first saw the collection I immediately thought of football players, and I wasn’t too far off:

The inspiration of the collection is very graphic that’s why I had bold prints,
a lot of jacquard and the big check at the end, and I wanted it to be very
graphic also with the shapes, the cropped styles and the logo. It’s kind of
inspired by rugby actually, I put it on these very strong guys and it looks very
masculine and it’s quite sexy. It’s quite utilitarian, it’s kind of like a khaki
fabric and it was in blue and then it was in khaki also in the show with like
this new carrot pant, shaped like a carrot and a big shirt. I thought it was
like a sort of uniform for the city.

-Italo Zucchelli

If only I could wear this as a uniform… a boy can dream can’t he? Of course, I couldn’t wear it like it is displayed on the runway, as most are thinking of wearing these pieces. The pieces would look alot different with some sort of tank top underneath, mesh for me. Pieces like these in my opinion, look best layered, and that’s exactly what I’d do with them.




Open: Jakum Zelman
Close: David Agbodji

Exclusives: Brian Blank(NY Models), David Agbodji, Ryan Koning(Major)

See more images from the show in the galleries.

SPRING 2011: Pringle of Scotland


So I know what I said about posting… well things have changed. I’ve decided that this blog is more of a curation of the industry as I am doing a majority of the posts. Also, the quality of the pictures wasn’t coming out well. So I’ve gone back to the old way. It just means less posts. Oh and for designers like Dolce and Gabanna, although I love the line and I do wish you a happy 20th, I can sadly not post your entire 96 look show. But let’s get into Pringle of Scotland. There is something so relaxed about this particular collection. Maybe it’s the shoulders, the way the material seems to actually fall on the bodies of the models, including the pants, but something seems so relaxed and yet at the same time, not at all cheap looking.

See the rest of the collection under the clip


SPRING 2011: Alexander McQueen

I wasn’t sure how in fact I would go about blogging Alexander McQueen. I mean the line must continue, but I just wasn’t sure how I would take this. I will attempt to do all I can to write as accurately about my feelings as possible while staying intelligible. Seeing the collection, I immediately thought, where is Alexander? Where is the actual Pomp and Circumstance that this show is entitled for. Besides of course in the jacket pictured above and the shorts pictured a few photos below. I was immediately angered, what are they doing with the McQueen brand. And then I went back over the collection, more carefully. I remembered that we loved Lee not only for his spectacular theatrics, for his over the top artistic ability, but also his technical skill. The fact that even with the famed “armadillo heels” he created, he still could wow us with technique alone, the fold of a dress, the tension created with the various lines. Viewing the collection again with this in mind, not only did every piece become an instant favorite, I finally understood the Pomp and Circumstance.

See the rest of the collection below.


SPRING 2011: Milan Day 1

Tom Nicon(1988-2010) by Serge Leblon for 10 Men

So, I love to blog and I love covering the shows. But I find myself always picking and choosing shows to blog about I simply dont have time to blog about them all by myself, especially not when I’m traveling, and interning at a few places. So, I think I’m going to do it by day and try to use this new online editing thing. Anyway, we open Milan Menswear Fashion Week 2011 with the sad news that Tom Nicon has died :(. There has been a string of model deaths in the past few eyars and it is sad to add another name to the list. Tom was found outside of his hotel room this morning after doing a Givenchy fitting. It’s a sad way to begin our coverage but we must stay real with what’s happening today

See our coverage of Missoni, Trussardi 1911, and Versace below
Missoni returns with the tried and true Missoni aesthetic to open our posts for Milan Menswear. Milan FREQUENTLY gets bypassed by people, and at times I’ve even heard it called “Mil-Yawn-O.” Whereas, I’m sometimes underwhelmed by Milan I love to watch brands like Missoni reinterpret the classic style. Whereas it is no London or Paris, Milan is a style all it’s own. I always love to see the new fabrics that Missoni uses and the excessive layering. Not afraid to mix patterns, Missoni frequently sends down cardigans on top of vests, underneath jackets. Another thing that I noted was the length of the shorts. Although they haven’t dropped completely below the knee they are decidedly longer and looser than what came down the runways last year and shorts like those that Dirk Bikkemberg showed on their live showing of their new collection of “sport couturia“. See the entire Missoni Spring 2011 collection for yourself here.

So, Trussardi 1911 showed today as well. 50 pairs of naked ankles walked down the runway. Yes that’s right, every pant had either a shortened leg, or the pants leg was rolled up. On the whole, the collection was very Milan fashion, alot of pieces that only used different materials, not so much different cuts. Of course there were matching bags for the Trussardi set. Huge matching bags, which I prefer GREATLY to the “murse” or worse yet the “mutch.” All in all I sort of liked the Trussardi collection. Whereas Missoni showed more of an elephant trunk leg, Truassardi 1911’s was more tapered. Plus, that first top… looks like a cardigan I nabbed a few months back! See the entire Trusardi 1911 collection here.

Ohhhh Donatella Donatella. That’s all I could manage as I flipped through the Versace Spring 2011 collection.The ankles were not unique to Trussardi 1911. The models walked down sans socks, plus gold and silver necklaces. To me there was just something so off about the collection. I mean maybe it’s the color palette, or maybe it’s the fact that it seems like Versace has bought into this cowboy theme that was in a few pieces of the Dirk Bikkemberg show… a style that I currently ABHOR! I’m not quite sure what it is but I have a distinct feeling that Donatella may be losing touch, atleast for menswear atleast. I normally have a love for the line’s womenswear though. Judge the collection for yourself here.

And with that, I am done with my summery post for Day 1, Milan Menswear. I may be doing a special post on the Dolce show, but it’s 96 looks strong I believe. Anyway, I leave you with the Bikkemberg video since I’ve talked about the show so much.

http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=12680408&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1

Fashion Show Summer 2011 from Nicolas Mottet on Vimeo.

FALL: 2010 Ermanno Scervino


This line was pretty simple. To me it seemed like a read-to-wear line and that’s good. Nice overcoats & classic tailoring. There was nothing over the top about it and I felt like every piece would be flexible within each other. I love how the plaid was used to a minimum. This was a collection of sophistication & really kinda left me speechless, so to say, it speaks for it’s self honestly.



Images provided by Jeremey Dante

Written by Courtney

FALL 2010: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

I’m sure if I didn’t even mention the genius designs you would have guessed it anyways. Once again McQueen has did it again. He’s pretty good at making jaw dropping clothes that make you thing “huh” or even gasp. You can’t help but admire that he didn’t focus on black a lot, there a few here and there, but gray was mostly shown throughout his collection. Fitted suits, face shielding and even stir up legging inspired pants. The prints he chose to use were nothing but unusual a few of them even made me think of the whole knight in shinning armor thing…but you can most certainly replace shinning with fitted. The layering was different but that’s what he’s all about. Loved the rain inspired suit and creepy bone/ghostly images on the button ups and sutis. Definitely a wardrobe for a bone collector (check the background of the runway).



Written by Courtney

FALL 2010: Dsquared2


So of the many menswear shows only a few actually put on a show. Two of my hands down favorite designers and have been my favorite for a LONG TIME are Dan and Dean Caten from Dsquared2. They always bring youth and craziness along with a show and this year proves no different. This year in addition to leather, sequins, and sheer material, the models were clothed in blood. Splatters on shirts, and drips on bare chests accented, low slung pants and oversized jackets. It was pretty simple, if you wanted a show just as you wanted fashion, Dsquared2 is definitely the way to go.

See more of our coverage under the clip.



PS I know that I normally only do 4 pictures but this last one reminds me so much of my friend… Let’s see if you guys can guess who.

See full coverage here

FALL 2010: Etro


So someone most definitely did NOT get the black and neutral colored memo. Well actually now that I think of it, the people at Etro probably did get the memo, looked at it, laughed, and made it into the neckpieces for this collection. If you were getting bored from all the bland colors and Vivienne Westwood didn’t quite tickle your fancy, I present you with Etro. Known, loved, and hated for their eccentric colors, Etro didn’t take to the trends and abandon what they are probably most noted for. They kept their colors and even pretty much kept the same silhouette.

See more of our coverage here.


FALL 2010: Bottega Veneta


Bottega Veneta used to be a favorite of mine. I tweeted to a friend earlier that it used to be a label that I love love loved, but with this collection, in addition to a few others the love has been dimmed to just like. Now this isn’t to say of course that this collection wasn’t a good collection but it wasn’t the greatest, and in my eyes it doesn’t even do what Tomas Maier said they wanted to do. The Fashionisto states that he said they “wanted to address the different ways men visualize themselves. Bottega Veneta’s goal is always to expand the vocabulary of men’s wear, to add individuality and expression. So there is sophistication, but also playfulness, bravado, eccentricity, rebelliousness – it all depends on how it’s put together” I really don’t find that this line expands the vocabulary of menswear.

See more coverage under the clip.

People write off Milan Menswear Fashion Week as too conservative, and as to restrained. It seems basic to alot of people, no way like it’s Parisian and London counterparts. In my opinion the Paris and London shows are the ones that expand the vocabulary of menswear, not Milan. I say this in no way to belittle Milan though because Milan menswear also plays a vital role. If Paris and London expand the vocabulary by adding new words, i think that Milan serves to develop it.

What I mean by saying this is, when you look at Milan shows, you see alot of the same basic pieces with small changes. The designers develop the garments differently, and although they are the same garment, the tone in which it is presented can make a world of difference. I believe this is a better explanation of this collection that one that “expands” the menswear vocabulary. I believe that it just develops it a bit more.