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Category: menswear

"The Septemberists" by Anthony Goicelea

There’s a special place in my heart for Thom Browne menswear. The Thom Browne suit is so iconic in it’s own way, so individualistic, that when you see it it’s unmistakable. Well the Thom Browne runway sample suit that is(I’ve been told that in stores suits are fitted to order which means they lose a tad of the signature aesthetic).
It was Alexander Fury that tipped me off to the film entitled “The Septemberists”. Fury is apart of one of the groups fueling fashion’s pursuit into film and so the stamp of approval by him carried a lot of weight. After that small trailer I immediately had to go to find the rest of the film
To say that I completely comprehend everything in the film would make me a farce. The thing is that most of the best Fashion Films have at least a touch of something that seems to be a bit incomprehensible. It’s because of how simple the film seems I believe. This simplicity causes a search for a deeper meaning and it’s this deeper meaning is what normally alludes me. It’s at this point that I’m reduced to watching the film and appreciating it for the beauty that it is.
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Color for the Boys


Thomas Gibbons shot by Chris Petranis in GQ Russia

It’s always interesting to see the looks from the shows and then watch at how the various voices screaming for attention in the industry are interpreted to the masses by the various fashion editors and stylists. I could have told you when the shows were going on that for menswear it was going to be a colorful season. With heavy hitters like Prada, Raf Simons, and Calvin Klein all showing some type of color blocked collections for men, it was sort of a given. Sure enough, publications around the world turned out more than their share of color blocked stories featuring those candy colored striped sweaters that Miuccia sent down the runway and the bright trousers from Jil Sander. Here’s just a handful of images from those editorials as color makes it’s rounds on menswear.


Nicolas Ripoll shot by Takay in Velvet Magazine

Bastiaan Ninaber shot by Matteo Montanari in GQ Germany

Linus Gustin shot by Jason Kim for Essential Homme

Hadrien & Toon shot by Steve Beckouet for Blast Magazine

River Viiperi and Sebastian Sauve shot by Arnaldo Anaya-Lucca for GQ Style Russia

source | thefashionisto, thefashionspot, thefashionspot, thefashionisto, bananas, thefashionisto

F/Homme Magazine Issue 1

So the debut issue of the menswear version of FIASCO Magazine has finally arrived. Inside you’ll find features on Vivienne Westwood, the Haus of Mugler, Rad Hourani and even the Spring 2011 Collections(by yours truly). A few photographers and included are cover models Mark Cox and William Eustace as well as Nicolas Ripoll, Joe Lally, and Justin Wu. Happy Reading.

SPRING: Prada Beijing 2011

Miccia Prada really has been outdoing herself for the past couple of seasons. With Prada and the diffusion label Miu Miu, there has seldom been a time since the brand hasn’t been circulating in the fashion blogosphere. Last month was the ad campaign(the video as well as the print ad) and the menswear show, and now we find ourselves looking at footage from the Spring 2011 show that she re staged in Beijing.
Not realizing the importance of China in the luxury market will probably prove fatal to brands. Miuccia shows that she recognizes the importance by pulling up stakes and holding an entire(although tweaked) show including menswear and womenswear in Beijing. While the sentiment of the show held constant, with the baroque motifs, there were tiny additions that interested me. Prints were done in different fabrics, and new pieces (like the man bags which look a tad similar to what just showed for Fall 2011) were shown. Stores will more than likely carry pieces similar to the ones shown in Beijing.

FILM: Mimetic Desire

So I’m saddened to say I’m trying to get adequately acclamaited to my new workload. I mean I have the images pulled for pre-fall trend posts and I need to begin to address the Parisian men shows as well as some more couture shows but until then I bring you the latest fashion film entitled Mimetic Desire shot by Jason Last and artistically directed by Jaime Rubiano. The film features model fave Nicolas Ripoll in pieces from Dior Homme styled by Jenke-Ahmed Tailly. It has just enough art and fashion to pique my interest.

Oh and you may find some things switching around on the blog. I just want to warn you

source | asvof

SPRING: Prada Menswear 2011

Models(from left to right): Luka Badnjar, Theo Hall, Nicolas Ripoll, Fenn Sean,Christian Ochsenfahrt
Source:
WWD
Label: Prada
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 Menswear

It was probably backwards of me to blog about the Prada Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear show before the menswear show. I mean Miuccia Prada herself even admitted to using the simplicity that constituted the Menswear collection as a starting point for the Womenswear. Well to be entirely honest, I’d stared at these faces for entirely too long and just knew what I wanted to say for the womenswear collection, and it felt so joyous. And although the collections share a similar color palette, to me the emotions they provoke are like night and day.

Watching the closing for the show, the versatility of the color palette is evident. One may be a tad confused as to what season we’re in, seeing as sleeves on the whole were long, but shorts proliferated through the collection. To sum up the collection in one word, I must revert back to Andre Leon Talley, “Clinical”. But of course not the bad kind, like when he was referring to Calvin Klein, but the good kind, when he was referring to Isabella.

Clinical and institutional are the words that describe the Prada Spring/Summer 2011 Menswear collection best. The words describe everything, from the scrub like tops, to the actual runway venue. Composed of concrete and glass that seemed to emanate light themselves, the runway itself seemed as if it were a hall pulled out of a clinical institution. The uniformity of the looks didn’t stray; three pieces suits, which were surprisingly slim, and striped sweaters were the order of the day.
I would be remiss if I didn’t point out that there was a play on proportions as well. We see three piece suit and think of it being a little bulkier than say, a simple shirt and pant. For Prada, this isn’t the case. The tops, mainly untucked, ranged from Clement Chabernaud‘s Under Armour like top that was layered atop a dress shirt and tie but still seemed like a second skin, to Tom Fonteyn‘s denim scrubs layered over a dress shirt and tie of the same material.

Accessories Shot
Source: Love Magazine
Label: Prada
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 Menswear

The collection, which featured stacked shoes which were actually composed of a combination of 3 different shoes, is sure to be an editorial favorite. The thing is, which season should the pieces be shot for? In the cover shoot for the latest issue of Hero Magazine, Luka Badnjar, who opened and closed the show, is wearing the pieces amidst what seems to be fall leaves, and it doesn’t seem one ounce out of place. Maybe the Prada man believes in global warming and knows in something that we don’t. I’d really use any excuse to get my hands on a piece though.

Models(left to right): Lucas Mascarini, Albert Krarup, Linus Gustin, James Smith
Photographer: Sonny
Label: Prada
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 Menswear

See the collection in the galleries.

Opened: Luka Badnjar
Closed: Luka Badnjar
Exclusive: Luka Badnjar,Peter Beyer, Pierre-Harald Leducq

VIDEO: End by Bell Soto


Video
Director: Bell Soto
Collection: Alexander McQueen SS 2011
Publication: V Magazine

You guys may or may not remember, but at first I was really nervous about reviewing the Alexander McQueen collection after Lee’s death. Well, I finally did and I’m slowly becoming more comfortable in dealings with all things McQueen. For example, apparently the Gala at the Met is going to be doing some sort of McQueen inspired event this year, and it seems that Hermione is wearing either McQueen or McQueen knockoffs in every image I see of her for the upcoming movie release. Also there was that entire small debacle with Hell’s Angels suing McQueen for selling the Hell’s Angels knuckle duster, dress, and shirt I believe. Thankfully it was settled out of court but McQueen has put a recall out for all of the pieces and has said they will destroy them all… I really don’t know one person that would return a piece if there’s nothing wrong with it.

But this video was positively beautiful. I loved it most because it showed me details that I missed in my viewing via the Style.com images of the show. For example the collar, or neck of the shirt… I love it. I can’t get enough of it. To me there seems to be so much romance embedded in that one detail alone. It gives nod to so many things and I love it. I also couldn’t help but notice that the pieces that were chosen for this video weren’t the most audacious but we were allowed to seethe exquisite workmanship that went into them. To be honest, that’s the only way Sarah Burton will survive the McQueen label. Don’t try to imitate McQueen’s creative mind and kick for theatrics, stay true to the design integrity of the brand. It will serve her well.

Models: Alex Bennett, Sebastian Sauve, Richie Cotterell and Danny Arter,
Director: Bell Soto
Stylist: Kim Howells
Collection: Alexander McQueen SS 2011
Hair: Ben Jones
Makeup: Thomas De Kluyver
Publication: V Magazine

SPRING: Petar Petrov 2011

Model: Linus Gustin
Label: Petar Petrov
Season: Spring/Summer 2011

If you follow me on Twitter then you already knew that this was coming. I mean I did warn you by saying “I think that if I lived in Paris I’d try to live the Spring/Summer of 2011 in all Petar Petrov… I’m just saying”. I wasn’t just rambling as I frequently do on Twitter, no I was making a very probable statement. If I were in Paris I’d try to outfit myself in a very simplistic, light, and yet appropriate wardrobe and with the Petar Petrov Spring/Summer 2011 collection, that’s what I’m presented with.

For this collection Petar Petrov, Bulgarian by birth, brings us a light, yet classic menswear collection. While I was a tad puzzled by smiling models on the catwalk, I couldn’t deny the effortless simplicity held within the design. Even the shoe, which reminded me of a leather version of the velvet slippers that have become so popular, spoke to simplicity. The colour palette, ranging from off white to a burgundy, and including light green as well as indigo, evoked a feeling of spring in and of themself, without considering the relaxed quality of the treated cotton fabrics.
While pieces were indeed classic, the styling of the pieces was not as common. Blazers with a crew neck, and sometimes even sans shirt were sent down the runway. Cropped shirts, also made their way onto the floor, at times layered above a crew neck, and at others, just brushing bare skin. The fall of the garments signify comfort as even the denim seems to have some considerable give in it and was paired with everything from what appears to be a sweat shirt, to a blazer, show it’s versatility.
The collection ended to me as a classic menswear collection applied to a slightly new taste palette. With pieces that are interchangeable and a color palette that encourages that it seems to be an entire wardrobe for the season. I only have one question though… are the shoes included??


See the rest of the collection in the galleries.

Open: Adnan Djinovic
Closed: Adnan Djinovic

EDITORIAL: Human Canvas


Editorial
Model: David Agbodji
Photographer: Thomas Paquet
Publication: WAD #46

There’s not much to say after the Le Baron editorial. You should understand why I’m posting this one. It’s art. The editorial only get’s pluses in my book for opening with one of the strongest minority male models right now. A name that has pretty much become synonymous with Calvin Klein, David Agbodji opens the artful editorial with what else except his sculpted figure? The styling of the editorial is significant in and of itself. Azadeh Zoraghi chose to style Bottega Venetta alongside brands like Wrangler. That’s tantamount to putting a Wal-Mart smiley face sticker in a an art exhibition with Renoir. Okay, maybe it’s not that drastic but you understand where I’m coming from right? Oh and if you look closely at the credits, you’ll find that this is We’Ar Different’s(WAD) “Man Issue.” I definitely can respect this interpretation.

Models: Brad Alphonso, David Agbodji, Nil Hoppenot, Simon Nygard and Thiago Santos
Photographer: Thomas Paquet
Stylist: Azadeh Zoraghi
Publication: WAD #46

EDITORIAL: Le Baron

Model: James Smith
Photographer: Leon Mark
Publication: L’Officiel Hommes Germany
Issue: Fall/Winter 2010/2011

I kinda can’t get this editorial out of my head. The reason being that Leon Mark has shot James Smith in the way that fashion should be shot, as art. Of course all these things are objective but since we’re on my blog… it’s fact here. Fashion is an art form, and a form of expression and should be treated as such. Just like art goes through periods(impressionist, post impressionist, modern, abstract expressionist), fashion goes through the same but under a different name: trends(minimalism, militaristic, 20’s, grunge). Just like in art where there’s a gross disparity between the price of a Manet print and a Degas original, there’s a difference between a Dior Couture leather glove and how Ms. Wintour puts it so eloquently, “something basic from K-Mart”. This editorial summons all of the emotion in me that any good work of art would; nostalgia washes over my body, and I’m encompassed by this unclear haze. Injected with just a tad bit of eeryness, I’m immediately pulled in.


Of course you guys now that I want to continue on about the editorial, but I did have another reason(sadly) for bringing it up. I actually had multiple reasons, one small reason and another bigger one. The small reason acutally has to do with the image above in particular. Does it not remind you of the Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2011 show? I just love it. As you guys may have noticed, I’m going back and picking up some shows that I missed the first go round. Whether this will expand into all of the shows is undecided yet but I want to do atleast one menswear show a week. Also if you check the galleries, you’ll notice that I’ve begun to ID as many models in the shows as I can. This becomes an obstacle to posting more shows since IDing models correctly is a tedious task…

The second reason, and maybe more important reason I bring up this editorial is I want to get something off my chest. I’m sure everyone has heard of the return to the “real woman” in fashion and some of you have even heard of the imminent return to the “real man.” Now I have no bone to pick with womenswear but whereas at first I anticipated liking this return to the “real man” I’m not so sure I like it any more. I’ve been looking at some editorials coming across my Google Reader depicting some upcoming publications and images from Geil in particular caused me to get riled up. Must I resemble a teddy bear to be considered a real man? I must have a beared, chest hair, stomach hair, arm hair, and leg hair to be considered a “real man?” Don’t feed me this gimmick.

Menswear used to be about timelessness, and I understood that. Now we are slowly dipping our toes in the water that is riddled with trends, and disposable fashion. I understand disposable and fast fashion. I respect both of those concepts for what they are. What I do not respect is this in between moment. Being facetious and fronting a trend as something that is iconic and classic. Maybe I’m wrong but to say that you’re putting out a “real man” issue of a magazine and have everyone crawling around it resembling a bear, is not in any way in my opinion indicitive of the general male population. Don’t like it?? Click on another post.

See the rest of the editorial in the galleries.
Model: James Smith
Photographer: Leon Mark
Stylists: Alex and Anton
Publication: L’Officiel Hommes Germany
Issue: Fall/Winter 2010/2011