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Category: london

SPOTLIGHT: Tze Goh

Label: Tze Goh
Season: Fall 2010

Designing an all white collection is no simple feat. Beyond that, designing an all white Fall collection in an industry where relevancy is key, and presenting it as your graduate presentation at Central Saint Martins( a school that has graduated the likes of John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Giles Deacon, Phoebe Philo, Gareth Pugh, and the most recent winner of the BFC/Vogue Fund, Christopher Kane) could be considered downright daring. This is exactly what Tze Goh chose to do though, and has done so to great success.
Born in Singapore, Goh has studied fashion in Paris, New York, and London. It is not this that piques my interest though. His time in the military(which is where in his boredom he actually turned to fashion) and his study of Japanese architect Tadao Ando prove much more insightful to his designs, than any work at the sewing machine, or in class studying color theory.
Only about to show his 3rd collection, Tze Goh, has already made a name for himself. His designs are unique even in the last days of minimalism because of the sensual architectural shapes created with materials never seen before. Some of the fabrics contain foam, giving the individual pieces the appearance of being molded instead of sewn together.
For his next collection, set to show at London Fashion Week in addition to Paris Fashion Week, Goh says his inspiration includes “japanese simplicity, natural elements, and Porsche cars.” While I may not know what that’s going to morph into, I only have to glance at his past to keep myself fixated Tze Goh’s future.

Fall 2010


Spring 2011


source | tze goh

Glimpse the New Denim at Topman

I spoke of a “Topman Denim” series of short films did I not? Well here is the trailer. Meet Louis, Henry, & Sid who have been described as “young protagonists.” Want to see what they’ll be up to? Well the full films will be launched in two days on October 4th. Stick around.

And for your viewing pleasure this is the Topman Design Spring/Summer 2011 show which showed at London Fashion Week. I was quite taken by the shorts. I loved them to be honest. All of the extra fabric and belted in a very… geriatric type of way. The belts are strong and give a little twist to the looks. Of course I noticed the shades, and the bags, and the rest of the clothing but the lengths of the shorts, and belting really caught my attention. I mean, I’m not a very round lens type of boy, so… while I can appreciate the slight feminine qualities, and the nice styling of them… it’s not something I see myself incorporating into my wardrobe any time soon.

"Pretty Woman, Walking Down The Street"

Label: Jonathan Saunders
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011(London)
Photographer: The Sartorialist
Even if I haven’t been blogging every show, I’ve atleast seen an image from all of them. It just so happens that when you’re juggling a job that you worked 40 hours on this week, as well as school work, and some other things… sometimes you can’t cover things like you want to. But that’s alright, even though we are well into Milan and about to step into Paris, I shall take a moment and pull us back into London, to examine Jonathan Saunders.

See the rest of my opinion as well as images from the show below the clip.

Some are inclined to believe that there is no difference between fashion weeks except for location. I don’t… and really can’t believe this. New York is commercialized. It’s about who is cool right now, and why they are cool. The reason they are cool is because everyone… well not really everyone, but the right crowd is wearing those pieces, thus they are popular. Case studies include Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, and finally Marc Jacobs. You can also look to Marchesa as well. In London, it’s about the concept. London designers are more apt to see their collections as pieces of art, and to create them accordingly which is why sometimes, hot names are not always the most profitable. A prime example of this, although the label has long moved from showing in London, is Alexander McQueen.
All of this being said, Scottish born designer, Jonathan Saunders understands these facts. After the graduate of Central Saint Martin’s debuted his label in London he received the Fashion Enterprise Award and the Elle Style Awards Designer of the Year. In February of 2008 Saunders moved his collection to New York. After this collection he returned to London and continued showing his collection for his namesake label there as well as coordinating the design for Pollini as Creative Director, which shows in Milan.
This latest collection shows Jonathan’s strength in print design while showing his versatility. It makes it clear to me that he could make it in New York any day, as apparently he plans to. The silhouettes of the garments give an ode to the “real woman” and to be entirely honest… I think I love her alot more than her androgynous sister. Well then again… I can wear her sister’s clothes :/


See the rest of the collection in the galleries.

In Honor of…

Daphne Guiness entering Alexander McQueen’s Memorial Service

To not pause and reflect on the greatness that Alexander McQueen created, the industries that he transformed, and the beauty that he made.. would be a shame. Alexander McQueen to me is the quintessential designer. Looking back over my posts, my first post that delved into a collection was of McQueen’s 2008 Fall RTW collection. Sarah Jessica Parker, Daphne Guiness, Naomi Campbell, Anna Wintour, and a slew of other big time names came to pay their respects at the memorial held for Lee in London, but to me it doesn’t matter. When I found out that he had passed, it didn’t matter to me what everyone else was doing, I mourned my loss. And now, again, I will pause and reflect on what McQueen has done, who he has inspired, and who his work shall continue to inspire.