Label: Gareth Pugh
Director: Ruth Hogben
Event: Pitti Immagine #79
To say I’m not looking for my next Alexander McQueen… would be to blatantly lie. I am. I don’t and never did think that Sarah Burton would be able to fill the void that was created by the industry’s loss of him, so the only thing I could think to do was to find a… supplement. Whether it’s “ethically right or wrong” it’s what I decided that I needed to do to cope, to make me understand that I was now not the only person that saw fashion as an art. I wanted to know that true creativity and innovation was still around and kicking and to be entirely honest, with the Gareth Pugh collection I was given that hope.
Some saw the most important part of this collection not to be in the cut, not to be in the color, not even to be in the styling or aesthetic but instead… the film that was shown. Until this point, while many have tried, few have made a substantial alternative to the fashion show. A fashion show’s effectiveness at showing the movement of a garment while also allowing the designer to procure the correct mood, all in a time efficient manner, is the reason that we haven’t deviated much for the sanctity of the show. Of course there’s also the sanctity of the front row that editors don’t want to give up.
“I really want to present my clothes to a wider audience and in a more freeing and interesting context than a standard fashion show: film enables me to regain total artistic and creative freedom. I feel very strongly that Fashion Film should not be seen as a secondary medium to live catwalk events, but as a modern alternative.”
“There is still a long way for fashion film to go; to be accepted as a medium in it’s own right, and to be given its place within the fashion industry. I think a lot of designers are just beginning to discover and appreciate its real and unique values”
With this film for his Spring/Summer 2011 collection Pugh may finally have made a lasting case against “the show”. In an interview on SHOWStudio he expressed his distaste for the fashion show and said that he would be interested in finding an alternative. Starring Kristen McMenamy, the film shows the garments in ways that a show never could. Furthermore, it allows for the designer to make sure that everything is perfect and not done in some hectic manner the way that some shows happen to be. The film doesn’t seem to be cheeky or contrived like some videos are and very much creates a mood. It seems that Gareth Pugh has filled his goals while at the same time creating a stunningly strong, smooth, neutral collection that of course has me lusting after each piece.