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Category: fashion week

SPRING: Fernando Frisoni

label Fernando Frisoni
season Spring/Summer 2011/2012 at Rosemount Australia Fashion Week

In most of the collections that I’ve seen from Australia Fashion Week, there’s been this sort of soft or light quality. I don’t really find this in the Fernando Frisoni collection. A label that isn’t new to me, Fernando Frisoni presents a collection with a color palette of whites, blacks, and a metallic gold. Only offering up a hand full of menswear looks this season, Frisoni seems to create long lasting pieces including a pair of shorts ere, an interesting dress there, in colors that will stand the test of time. While there was something about the pockets that bothered me, the collection as a whole, the man skirt to be more specific, pleased me and made clear that Frisoni was no newbie.
Prior to design, Frisoni was a writer and a stylist. He launched his label in 2008 and added womenswear two years later. His aesthetic for classicism has been present throughout his time as a designer.
source | for tomorrow

Day 1 Emerging Designers CFW

label Sarah Parrott
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

So on Tuesday, Charleston Fashion Week began. While I haven’t been able to go down yet, I will be running down on Friday and I’ll also be there Saturday as well. Sarah Parrott was one of the 4 emerging designers to show for opening night and happened to snag my slot for best show of the night. The color blocked collection featured crop tops, leather, and a sort of minimalistic edge that one wouldn’t expect with pieces in hot pink red and blue. Parrott also snagged the People’s Choice Award but sadly will not be showing the entirety of her collection on Saturday.

label Veritee Hill
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

It was the dark and artistic Veritee Hill collection that managed to get the Judges’ pick of the night. This means that the collection, along with it’s seemingly young Galliano aesthetic, will move on in the competition and will be show in it’s entirety on Saturday. With a bit of black and a bit of latex, Hill designed a collection inspired by Baudelaire’s Les Fleurs du Mal. It actually was the first look that interested me most, with it’s hand painted fabric, full skirt, and headpiece. The collection shows that Hill has the artistic ability and executing power to be a directional designer.

label Van Hoang
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

There was something soothing about the Van Hoang collection, soothing and ephemeral. From the dies to the flow of the garments, there was a calming sensation that seemed to sink right down into the models themselves. The pieces themselves were well versed: scarves, shorts, sundresses, and even a gown. Hoang would have to be my runner up for best show of the night because the collection presented was one that was very wearable, and seemed to be molded by a disciplined hand.

label Marie Cordella
season Fall 2011 at Charleston Fashion Week

There was something very London about the Marie Cordella collection. While not “quintessentially London” it most certainly seemed like the up and coming establishment of the city reminding me of designers like Jonathan Saunders and Mary Katrantzou. Cordella cites graphic textural and historical inspirations for her colorful collections that seems driven by a short silhouette. While maybe a little bright for fall, the collection most certainly shows talent.

source | fashionwirepress

SPRING: Prada Womenswear 2011

Model: Jessica Stam
The Sartorialist
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear

Before I actually begin to discuss the hedonism that was the Prada Spring Summer 2011 Womenswear collection, I would like to get something off of my chest. Blogging womenswear is decidedly alot easier than menswear. Runway that is. Information and resources are light years ahead in womenswear compared to menswear. For example, to find out the casting list for this show, I only had to click through Style.com and I got the models name as well as a short GIF of them actually walking in the show. For menswear, I had to track down a list, which was alphabetized, and then in turn look up every model on said list(if I didn’t know them) to find who exactly they were. I mean, I have no problem with womenswear bloggers, and don’t completely consider myself a “menswear blogger” but I just wanted to make that point.

Now why don’t we get into some bananas, 20’s, color blocking, and good old fashion hedonistic behavior; in other words, the Prada Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear collection.

Shala Monroque(Editor at Large for Pop Magazine)
Jak and Jil
Blouse and Skirt: Prada Spring/Summer 2011
Bracelet: Delfina Delettrez

Always the first one to rock peices from new Prada collections, days after Miuccia Prada showed the Prada Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear collection in the same space she showed the Menswear collection a few months prior, Shala Monroque was spotted by Tommy Ton of Jak and Jil wearing pieces from the collection. The detailed shot of the blouse(Look 26 in the show worn by Hannah Noble) makes evident what the funky designs covering pieces of the collection are: monkeys. Of course and you can’t realistically do a collection featuring monkeys as the cherubs for your work without bananas, now can you? Miuccia even got in on it herself, taking her bow in a small pair of bright yellow banana earrings, which I sadly didn’t catch on any of the model’s ears.

Deciphering a Prada collection is always like attempting to figure out what your mom puts in your favorite dish. There’s just so many things that it could be, so many things that are blatant, but you always have the uncanny feeling that you’ve missed something. In the collection, the monkeys are evident, as are the bananas. Even the flapper-esque fit of some of the dresses, with the fringe adorning the hem is there for all to see, and hear apparently. But is that the depth of the 20’s influence? Only a little fringe, and the flapper fit? Or are those fur stoles supposed to remind us of the Jazz Age with a more modern, hedonistic twist? Are we to look to the stacked boaters and think of decades past and platforms forgotten? Oh and what about that darn sombrero? Although packing a punch in the color department, where exactly did that come from? The bananas maybe? Of course and all of that isn’t even touching on the question of who exactly closes a Spring/Summer show with a black dress?

Accessories Shot
Photographer: Sonny
Label: Prada
Collection: Spring/Summer Womenswear 2011

All in all, while the collection nods to the trends, including a little to minimalism, it’s fully hedonistic. That’s really the only word I can find to describe it. It seems that the Prada woman will have something to celebrate in the Spring/Summer of 2011 and it will include her tall heels no matter what Prada’s CEO, Patrizio Bertelli, has to say or thinks about it. And the only thing I have to say is… I’d have it no other way.

Backstage Shot
Models: Jourdan Dunn(left), and Melodie Monrose(right)
Photographer: Sonny
Label: Prada
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011

See the entire collection in the galleries.

Opened: Arizona Muse
Closed: Arizona Muse
Exclusive: Lynn Amelie Rage

SPRING: Josep Abril 2011

Model: Linus Gustin
Label: Josep Abril
Collection: Summer/Spring 2011(Barcelona)

Paris, Milan, New York, and London are not the only fashion weeks that happen, and they by far aren’t the only weeks that I view images from. While the Fashion Four do deserve, and recieve alot of attention I find myself seeking out the weeks in other cities as well and recently have found that I like a collection that showed during the main weeks but slipped through the cracks. The Josep Abril collection was shown during Barcelona Fashion Week, and I found it because I was flipping through another show that I recieved some information on. I immediately gravitated towards Josep Abril because the collection , utilizing the colors red magenta, blue, and white, includes knitwear… for the Summer/Spring 2011 season. I’m not sure if I’ve admitted it to you all yet but, I love knitwear.

To be entirely honest I was a tad startled by the casting. As I flicked through the images I noticed a slightly feminine curve to one of the models and upon closer inspection realized that it was indeed a girl. A second runthrough of the looks revealed to me that yes indeed a few girls like Daniela Kocianova were sprinkled in with the guys who made up the line up including models like Jon Kortajarena, Jakob Hybholt, Clement Chaubernaud and Linus Gustin. Josep says this of casting females to walk in the show:

I wanted to cancel the divide between menswear and women’s clothes because it’s also a luxury for women to be able to dress in men’s clothes.

Josep Abril
After getting over that I began to take in the bold color and relaxed luxury of the collection. The knits, both heavy and light, seemed to create a very relaxed mood which surprisingly gelled well with the color pallette. Whereas red can sometimes be blaring or startling, the decision to use red magenta, toned it down just enough to give it a very relaxed and yet still relevant tone. Of course, the white is always a spring color for me and this was no different. It seemed to emphasize more of the simplicity of the collection while still retaining the same relaxed luxury held throughout.

See the rest of the collection in the galleries

"Pretty Woman, Walking Down The Street"

Label: Jonathan Saunders
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011(London)
Photographer: The Sartorialist
Even if I haven’t been blogging every show, I’ve atleast seen an image from all of them. It just so happens that when you’re juggling a job that you worked 40 hours on this week, as well as school work, and some other things… sometimes you can’t cover things like you want to. But that’s alright, even though we are well into Milan and about to step into Paris, I shall take a moment and pull us back into London, to examine Jonathan Saunders.

See the rest of my opinion as well as images from the show below the clip.

Some are inclined to believe that there is no difference between fashion weeks except for location. I don’t… and really can’t believe this. New York is commercialized. It’s about who is cool right now, and why they are cool. The reason they are cool is because everyone… well not really everyone, but the right crowd is wearing those pieces, thus they are popular. Case studies include Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, and finally Marc Jacobs. You can also look to Marchesa as well. In London, it’s about the concept. London designers are more apt to see their collections as pieces of art, and to create them accordingly which is why sometimes, hot names are not always the most profitable. A prime example of this, although the label has long moved from showing in London, is Alexander McQueen.
All of this being said, Scottish born designer, Jonathan Saunders understands these facts. After the graduate of Central Saint Martin’s debuted his label in London he received the Fashion Enterprise Award and the Elle Style Awards Designer of the Year. In February of 2008 Saunders moved his collection to New York. After this collection he returned to London and continued showing his collection for his namesake label there as well as coordinating the design for Pollini as Creative Director, which shows in Milan.
This latest collection shows Jonathan’s strength in print design while showing his versatility. It makes it clear to me that he could make it in New York any day, as apparently he plans to. The silhouettes of the garments give an ode to the “real woman” and to be entirely honest… I think I love her alot more than her androgynous sister. Well then again… I can wear her sister’s clothes :/

See the rest of the collection in the galleries.

Did I Make It?

Talk about hectic. So the day of the Peter Som show I had to work. I don’t know if I explained my job to you guys but it involves me waking at 4:15. Anywho I was at work and then I proceed to begin driving to pick someone up when I realize that it’s after 9:15 so Peter Som should be starting on Milk Made. What do I do? I of course open my laptop while driving and search for Wi-Fi while driving around downtown Columbia. Safe? No, but I do it for fashion! Anywho I finally pulled into the public library and sprinted(I would love to say like a gazelle but I have only just realized my legs are not long enough to sprint like a gazelle and so I just kind of ran fast) into the library and plopped down on the floor only to find that Richland County Public Library blocks Milk Made. I tracked down the feed on AOL, and caught the tail end of a spectacular show!

See our actual coverage as well as images below the clip.

But now that I’ve gotten the discovery of this show out of the way, let’s get to the coverage! Well, everybody may think I’m totally insane for saying this but this collection gave me SO much Dior Couture Fall 2010. I mean this yellow dress reminds me of this dress a little. Of course, more wearable. But then again every time I see a skinny belt that pops I tend to think Dior Couture Fall 2010 because of this WONDERFUL tulip. Let’s move on though. The collection was wonderfully colored, and tastefully so. Taste was also imbedded into the amount of skin shown. While tummies may be bare for spring, Peter Som has ladies covering up their belly buttons with a high waist. The heel is strappy and causes the waif like models to teeter. I guess, for some labels, we haven’t yet exhausted the height of the heel.

See the rest of the collection.

COUTURE: Christian Dior F/W 2010/2011

Grandaddy Dior is FINALLY back! The last two collections were sooo ALIKE! They were so similar and I think I stated that. I was becoming very disenheartened with Grandaddy and John Galliano’s interpretation of his aesthetic. It seemed as if we were being given the same collection… just stuck back in the microwave. This collection, although it uses similar ingredients, DEFINITELY is new. Although the floral/gardener theme is still present, it is clear, that Galliano has again made Grandaddy relevant!

See the rest of our coverage and the collection below the clip
I felt so passionate about this collection that even though I couldn’t just copy and paste the pictures I was determined to have them. Because of that I had to go through and by hand, screenshot each picture and upload it. Think that I complained while looking at these garments? The horse theme that had previously been surrounded by florals is gone, and is now replaced by the garden. Each model was apart of this garden, most dresses, flowers. We’ll UNDOUBTEDLY see more than a few hitting the red carpets in the upcoming seasons.
It’s really sad that I saw those gloves and it was decided. Those gloves were… the decision making tool. Heck, I would go gardening if I was given those gloves. Okay maybe I wouldn’t, but I would walk around town and pretend that I did. And the dress below… HEAVEN SENT. Even Galliano, who walked out in a veiled boater looked stunning… It has been confirmed, whereas we may have thought Givenchy’s decision to change the way they did couture was signaling the end of things, this collection begs to differ.

SPRING 2011: Pringle of Scotland

So I know what I said about posting… well things have changed. I’ve decided that this blog is more of a curation of the industry as I am doing a majority of the posts. Also, the quality of the pictures wasn’t coming out well. So I’ve gone back to the old way. It just means less posts. Oh and for designers like Dolce and Gabanna, although I love the line and I do wish you a happy 20th, I can sadly not post your entire 96 look show. But let’s get into Pringle of Scotland. There is something so relaxed about this particular collection. Maybe it’s the shoulders, the way the material seems to actually fall on the bodies of the models, including the pants, but something seems so relaxed and yet at the same time, not at all cheap looking.

See the rest of the collection under the clip

SPRING 2011: Alexander McQueen

I wasn’t sure how in fact I would go about blogging Alexander McQueen. I mean the line must continue, but I just wasn’t sure how I would take this. I will attempt to do all I can to write as accurately about my feelings as possible while staying intelligible. Seeing the collection, I immediately thought, where is Alexander? Where is the actual Pomp and Circumstance that this show is entitled for. Besides of course in the jacket pictured above and the shorts pictured a few photos below. I was immediately angered, what are they doing with the McQueen brand. And then I went back over the collection, more carefully. I remembered that we loved Lee not only for his spectacular theatrics, for his over the top artistic ability, but also his technical skill. The fact that even with the famed “armadillo heels” he created, he still could wow us with technique alone, the fold of a dress, the tension created with the various lines. Viewing the collection again with this in mind, not only did every piece become an instant favorite, I finally understood the Pomp and Circumstance.

See the rest of the collection below.

SPRING 2011: Milan Day 1

Tom Nicon(1988-2010) by Serge Leblon for 10 Men

So, I love to blog and I love covering the shows. But I find myself always picking and choosing shows to blog about I simply dont have time to blog about them all by myself, especially not when I’m traveling, and interning at a few places. So, I think I’m going to do it by day and try to use this new online editing thing. Anyway, we open Milan Menswear Fashion Week 2011 with the sad news that Tom Nicon has died :(. There has been a string of model deaths in the past few eyars and it is sad to add another name to the list. Tom was found outside of his hotel room this morning after doing a Givenchy fitting. It’s a sad way to begin our coverage but we must stay real with what’s happening today

See our coverage of Missoni, Trussardi 1911, and Versace below
Missoni returns with the tried and true Missoni aesthetic to open our posts for Milan Menswear. Milan FREQUENTLY gets bypassed by people, and at times I’ve even heard it called “Mil-Yawn-O.” Whereas, I’m sometimes underwhelmed by Milan I love to watch brands like Missoni reinterpret the classic style. Whereas it is no London or Paris, Milan is a style all it’s own. I always love to see the new fabrics that Missoni uses and the excessive layering. Not afraid to mix patterns, Missoni frequently sends down cardigans on top of vests, underneath jackets. Another thing that I noted was the length of the shorts. Although they haven’t dropped completely below the knee they are decidedly longer and looser than what came down the runways last year and shorts like those that Dirk Bikkemberg showed on their live showing of their new collection of “sport couturia“. See the entire Missoni Spring 2011 collection for yourself here.

So, Trussardi 1911 showed today as well. 50 pairs of naked ankles walked down the runway. Yes that’s right, every pant had either a shortened leg, or the pants leg was rolled up. On the whole, the collection was very Milan fashion, alot of pieces that only used different materials, not so much different cuts. Of course there were matching bags for the Trussardi set. Huge matching bags, which I prefer GREATLY to the “murse” or worse yet the “mutch.” All in all I sort of liked the Trussardi collection. Whereas Missoni showed more of an elephant trunk leg, Truassardi 1911’s was more tapered. Plus, that first top… looks like a cardigan I nabbed a few months back! See the entire Trusardi 1911 collection here.

Ohhhh Donatella Donatella. That’s all I could manage as I flipped through the Versace Spring 2011 collection.The ankles were not unique to Trussardi 1911. The models walked down sans socks, plus gold and silver necklaces. To me there was just something so off about the collection. I mean maybe it’s the color palette, or maybe it’s the fact that it seems like Versace has bought into this cowboy theme that was in a few pieces of the Dirk Bikkemberg show… a style that I currently ABHOR! I’m not quite sure what it is but I have a distinct feeling that Donatella may be losing touch, atleast for menswear atleast. I normally have a love for the line’s womenswear though. Judge the collection for yourself here.

And with that, I am done with my summery post for Day 1, Milan Menswear. I may be doing a special post on the Dolce show, but it’s 96 looks strong I believe. Anyway, I leave you with the Bikkemberg video since I’ve talked about the show so much.


Fashion Show Summer 2011 from Nicolas Mottet on Vimeo.