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Category: 2011

SPRING: Prada Beijing 2011

Miccia Prada really has been outdoing herself for the past couple of seasons. With Prada and the diffusion label Miu Miu, there has seldom been a time since the brand hasn’t been circulating in the fashion blogosphere. Last month was the ad campaign(the video as well as the print ad) and the menswear show, and now we find ourselves looking at footage from the Spring 2011 show that she re staged in Beijing.
Not realizing the importance of China in the luxury market will probably prove fatal to brands. Miuccia shows that she recognizes the importance by pulling up stakes and holding an entire(although tweaked) show including menswear and womenswear in Beijing. While the sentiment of the show held constant, with the baroque motifs, there were tiny additions that interested me. Prints were done in different fabrics, and new pieces (like the man bags which look a tad similar to what just showed for Fall 2011) were shown. Stores will more than likely carry pieces similar to the ones shown in Beijing.

SPRING: LaRoque 2011

Models: Sadye Clinton
Photographer: Travis Teate
Label: LaRoque
Season: Spring/Summer 2011

When it comes to local fashion, to be entirely honest there’s not much going on. Sure, there are some start ups that I want to see develop but Columbia fashion is not where it could theoretically be, nor where I feel it should be. This of course, is a horrible way to start off a post but I’m a blogger, so I have to be honest right? The thing is, the LaRoque label to me is

a shining beacon of hope for… oh, I don’t know… let’s say a young boy growing up in Rhode Island with six brothers pretending to go to soccer practice when he was really going to sewing class and reading Runway under the covers at night with a flashlight.

Stanley Tucci in Devil Wears Prada

Thus it would be insane for me to not post the Spring/Summer 2011 collection.

News 19 Interview
Designer: Annabelle Laroque
Label: LaRoque

Southern, Sophisticated, and Modern, that’s how I would describe the Spring/Summer 2011 collection of LaRoque. With her latest offerings, Annabelle LaRoque takes a label that has been deeply rooted in tradition, very much regarded as a “pretty aesthetic” (in the most beautiful of ways of course) and pushed her child a few steps forward. Styled by Marquis Bias, the collection combines the LaRoque staple of skirts and dresses with a new option: shorts. Adorned with a bow here, and a golden button there, the shorts blend seamlessly into the already strong label’s repertoire.

Of course, we all know that the right color palette is vital to me and with a frothy pink to begin and an injection of tangarine, teal-aqua, and finally black on a shape that is effortlessly cute, my taste is satiated. It’s a collection that should be on hand for any southern girl(even if only at heart) and beginning Spring/Summer 2011, that should prove alot easier as LaRoque will be in 17 different boutiques. Lensed by Travis Teate, LaRoque‘s latest collection leaves me with a feeling of hope for the Columbia industry and only thirst for what she will bring us for next season.

See the rest of the lookbook in the galleries.
Follow LaRoque on Twitter.Visit the LaRoque website.
Models: Sadye Clinton and Sandra West
Photographer: Travis Teate
Stylist: Marquis Bias
Designer: Annabelle LaRoque
Hair & Make-Up: Anna Welén

SPRING: Petar Petrov 2011

Model: Linus Gustin
Label: Petar Petrov
Season: Spring/Summer 2011

If you follow me on Twitter then you already knew that this was coming. I mean I did warn you by saying “I think that if I lived in Paris I’d try to live the Spring/Summer of 2011 in all Petar Petrov… I’m just saying”. I wasn’t just rambling as I frequently do on Twitter, no I was making a very probable statement. If I were in Paris I’d try to outfit myself in a very simplistic, light, and yet appropriate wardrobe and with the Petar Petrov Spring/Summer 2011 collection, that’s what I’m presented with.

For this collection Petar Petrov, Bulgarian by birth, brings us a light, yet classic menswear collection. While I was a tad puzzled by smiling models on the catwalk, I couldn’t deny the effortless simplicity held within the design. Even the shoe, which reminded me of a leather version of the velvet slippers that have become so popular, spoke to simplicity. The colour palette, ranging from off white to a burgundy, and including light green as well as indigo, evoked a feeling of spring in and of themself, without considering the relaxed quality of the treated cotton fabrics.
While pieces were indeed classic, the styling of the pieces was not as common. Blazers with a crew neck, and sometimes even sans shirt were sent down the runway. Cropped shirts, also made their way onto the floor, at times layered above a crew neck, and at others, just brushing bare skin. The fall of the garments signify comfort as even the denim seems to have some considerable give in it and was paired with everything from what appears to be a sweat shirt, to a blazer, show it’s versatility.
The collection ended to me as a classic menswear collection applied to a slightly new taste palette. With pieces that are interchangeable and a color palette that encourages that it seems to be an entire wardrobe for the season. I only have one question though… are the shoes included??

See the rest of the collection in the galleries.

Open: Adnan Djinovic
Closed: Adnan Djinovic

SPRING: Josep Abril 2011

Model: Linus Gustin
Label: Josep Abril
Collection: Summer/Spring 2011(Barcelona)

Paris, Milan, New York, and London are not the only fashion weeks that happen, and they by far aren’t the only weeks that I view images from. While the Fashion Four do deserve, and recieve alot of attention I find myself seeking out the weeks in other cities as well and recently have found that I like a collection that showed during the main weeks but slipped through the cracks. The Josep Abril collection was shown during Barcelona Fashion Week, and I found it because I was flipping through another show that I recieved some information on. I immediately gravitated towards Josep Abril because the collection , utilizing the colors red magenta, blue, and white, includes knitwear… for the Summer/Spring 2011 season. I’m not sure if I’ve admitted it to you all yet but, I love knitwear.

To be entirely honest I was a tad startled by the casting. As I flicked through the images I noticed a slightly feminine curve to one of the models and upon closer inspection realized that it was indeed a girl. A second runthrough of the looks revealed to me that yes indeed a few girls like Daniela Kocianova were sprinkled in with the guys who made up the line up including models like Jon Kortajarena, Jakob Hybholt, Clement Chaubernaud and Linus Gustin. Josep says this of casting females to walk in the show:

I wanted to cancel the divide between menswear and women’s clothes because it’s also a luxury for women to be able to dress in men’s clothes.

Josep Abril
After getting over that I began to take in the bold color and relaxed luxury of the collection. The knits, both heavy and light, seemed to create a very relaxed mood which surprisingly gelled well with the color pallette. Whereas red can sometimes be blaring or startling, the decision to use red magenta, toned it down just enough to give it a very relaxed and yet still relevant tone. Of course, the white is always a spring color for me and this was no different. It seemed to emphasize more of the simplicity of the collection while still retaining the same relaxed luxury held throughout.

See the rest of the collection in the galleries

SPRING: Calvin Klein Menswear 2011

Backstage Photo
Sonny Vandevelde
Label: Calvin Klein
Season: Summer/Spring 2011(Milan)

So when the menswear shows came I told myself, I would not stress myself out over reviewing them. I would get to them in due time… I mean I do have until January before shows start up again. It is now November, and I’m beginning back in on them and first up is Calvin Klein. The most memorable part to most were the cropped tops, and to others, they were the shorts that David Abodji wore that left little to the imagination. To me, I wanted to see the shoes. Peculiar, yes, but I was just sort of in awe of this shoe that seemed like it was attempting to be a cross between a dress shoe and sneaker. It was even used as both in the show. So of course I went on a hunt for said shoe and couldn’t find it until I went to Sonny’s blog. There they were, sitting at the bottom of his images. I only smiled.

So I’ve arranged the 4 looks that I’ve decided to display on the blog in a very specific way. It’s all about the amount of skin shown. Awkward way to organize, I’m sure but I mean it was the first thing I thought of. The collection which is most certainly at least a tad inspired by activewear, is a new take on minimalism. While still retaining minimalistic ideals of mostly monochromatic pieces Itallo Zuccelli begins to rework very basic pieces by cropping them. Jackets nor tanks were kept from his shears. When I first saw the collection I immediately thought of football players, and I wasn’t too far off:

The inspiration of the collection is very graphic that’s why I had bold prints,
a lot of jacquard and the big check at the end, and I wanted it to be very
graphic also with the shapes, the cropped styles and the logo. It’s kind of
inspired by rugby actually, I put it on these very strong guys and it looks very
masculine and it’s quite sexy. It’s quite utilitarian, it’s kind of like a khaki
fabric and it was in blue and then it was in khaki also in the show with like
this new carrot pant, shaped like a carrot and a big shirt. I thought it was
like a sort of uniform for the city.

-Italo Zucchelli

If only I could wear this as a uniform… a boy can dream can’t he? Of course, I couldn’t wear it like it is displayed on the runway, as most are thinking of wearing these pieces. The pieces would look alot different with some sort of tank top underneath, mesh for me. Pieces like these in my opinion, look best layered, and that’s exactly what I’d do with them.

Open: Jakum Zelman
Close: David Agbodji

Exclusives: Brian Blank(NY Models), David Agbodji, Ryan Koning(Major)

See more images from the show in the galleries.

Beginning with Lusan Mandongus

Label: Lusan Mandongus
Collection: Fall/Winter 2011
So I’m flitting around town this morning when I stop at a red light and notice that I have an unread email about some updates in the fashion world. I casually open it and glance at the headlines and all I see is bridal, bridal, bridal. I’m reading about Monique Lhuillier, Reem Acra, as well as Badgley Mischka and Kevin Hall, who has only just launched his label. Then there’s Thread, one of the first labels that made bridesmaid dresses that were actually attractive, and I’m like… what is it with all of this stuff. After inquiring on twitter I find out that it is the time for bridal shows, and although I have never covered the shows before, and I am by far not the most experienced hand at critiquing bridal wear, I know I can start like most bloggers started blogging… This collection is PUUURRRTTYYYY!

See the rest of the collection in the galleries.

Individual Innovation (Rad Hourani SS 2011)

Video PresentationModel: Tanga MonreauDirector: Rad HouraniLabel: Rad HouraniCollection: Spring/Summer 2011

So when I blogged about the Rad by Rad Hourani collection I said that I knew that there was also a Rad Hourani collection but I wasn’t sure about the differentiation. Well, with this new film, and the accompanying research I’ve done, I now understand the difference. A collection made of 6 pieces styled(by William Graper) and reinterpreted into 22 different looks, is what Rad Hourani has given us for his main eponymous line. Done in his customary color palette of black with the addition of white, the collection stays true to what Rad Hourani has come to mean: genderless, timeless, and trendless.

The film, which was directed and filmed by Hourani himself but edited by Kevin Collero, makes blatantly clear that there is another aspect at work in the Rad aesthetic; symmetry. The quick cuts, while maybe confusing to some, show almost absolute symmetry in the entire collection. The hair and makeup, done by Hung Vanngo, only serves to further invoke the trendless quality of the film, proving to be not a hindrance or distraction to the simplicity, and yet complexity of the garments.
The Six Pieces:
  • 3 Jackets
  • 1 Top
  • 1 Pair of Leather Pants
  • 1 Bag

These pieces all contain various zippers that allow collars, sleeves, and panels to be detached and connected, which gives the collection it’s versatility. The Rad Hourani aesthetic is one that I adore, and in my opinion is visionary. Since the Rad Hourani Collection #6 is supposed to be like a laboratory(as all Rad Hourani collections), I would look to be purchasing from the lower priced Rad by Rad Hourani collection. The easiest way to do that, of course, would be to try and snag a pair of the shoes that were designed. Three unisex styles of shoe, only 200 pair of each style, and they go on sale in February of 2011 on Rad Hourani’s website.

See the rest of the collection in the galleries.

EDITORIAL: Suprematism

Models: Xenia, Volker
Photographer and Styling: Madame Peripetie
Hair and Makeup: Anja Schweihoff
With all the ingredients for a minimalist editorial Suprematism, shot by Madame Peripetie, gives us what we assume to be the opposite. With pieces billowing, and creating geometric shapes around Xenia and Volker, the sheer size, or potential of the size, of the garments is immediately impressed on the onlooker. Utilizing pieces from the likes of Rey Pador, Linda Friesen, and Mango the editorial turns out to being one that instantly intrigues me… and of course can segway into a discussion 🙂

Left: dress Linda Friesen, headpiece Charlie Le Mindu, shoes Frederick Hornof
Right: dress and shoes Rey Pador

So, you really couldn’t NOT notice the dichotomy that was the Spring/Summer 2011 collections! I mean the minimalism that was say… I don’t know, Alexander Wang versus the opulence that was Louis Vuitton? (I’m not sure I would call Louis Vuitton opulence though.. thus my not having written a review on it yet… let’s call it indulgence… yeah, that’s better indulgence.) It was clear that there was a disconnect between the majority of the shows in New York, and the majority of the shows in London. Take Mary Kantrantzou for example… did you see minimalism? Her collection, reminiscent of porcelain/china dolls, was wonderfully colored, and tastefully so.
Some say that the editors, and the rest of the industry at large will have bored of the minimalistic aesthetic by the time Spring 2011 rolls around and that the things being shot will be more of Oscar de la Renta and D&G than Neil Barrett. I mean this minimalistic trend has been going on for two years so I can’t blame editors getting annoyed with it, but I rather like it to be entirely truthful. This season’s minimalism was just a touch different than others though: it seemed a tad bit more relaxed than in past seasons.
Of course I have taken this editorial and bent it to my own meaning and disregarded the intended meaning which more than likely had to do with the Suprematist’s movement, an early twentieth century Russian art movement started by Kazimir Malevich. The Wunderkind Fall 2009 collection was inspired by the movement as well.
hat Femke Ageme, dress Linda Friesen, shoes Frederick Hornof, tights Wolford

headpeice Varun Sardana, coat, skirt, leggings, and clogs, all by Frederick Hornof
Left: hat Femke Ageme, dress Linda Friesen, shoes Frederick Hornof, tights Wolford

Right: coat Karolina Piech, top Mango, leggings Linda Friesen, shoes Dora Mojzes

Left: shoulderpiece Linda Friesen, corset Tolllkiersche, robe Frederick Hornof, shoes Rey Pador

Right: collar Linda Friesen, dress Frederick Hornof

Left: collar Linda Friesen, dress Frederick Hornof
Right: dress Linda Friesen, headpiece Charlie Le Mindu

dress and shoes Rey Pador

Models: Xenia (Model-Pool), Volker (Tomorrow Is Another Day)
Photographer and Stylist:Madame Peripetie
Hair & Makeup: Anja Schweihoff (LIGAWEST)
Stylist’s Assistant: Heike Heldsdörfer

Safari Opulence

Detail Accessory Shot
Collection: Lanvin Summer/Spring 2011(Paris)
Label: Lanvin
I hope you didn’t think that my fashion week coverage was over! PARIS has only just ended my dear dahlings, and to me Paris is very much like New York! Well, not in terms of aesthetic or philosophy but in terms of the amount of shows I wish to cover. I mean in aesthetic, while New York is all about who’s new, who’s cool, who’s now, Paris looks more to the houses of old. When you hear the terms house DNA or when critics begin to discuss designers rifling through the archives, you’re more than likely discussing some Parisian house. I mean think about the Yves Saint Laurent issue: Pierre Berge wishes to end any further production to perserve the legacy of the YSL brand and the way that he attempts to thwart any designer that has been hired to head the brand, like Stefano Pilati, he makes accessing the archives, which are owned by a fund in his name, difficult. But enough about that, let’s get to Alber Ebaz and this Lanvin collection since we apparently have 3 more years to discuss Pilati and YSL.

My personal aesthetic is pretty minimalistic. I’m not afraid or ashamed to admit it. I love my aesthetic… which is why I attempt to maintain it. But the thing is, I LOVE to take my minimalistic aesthetic and use it to set off some accessories. To really put them on display! I mean since there ideally isn’t much going on with my clothes, besides attention to the cut and fall of them, I can indulge on pieces like the housefly featured above from the first look of the Lanvin collection. I can only say one thing to Elie Top… DIVINE!

The actual collection was marvelous to me. The hair slicked back in a, no nonsense way, it was immediately all about the garments. While I didn’t love every look, I certainly loved most of them. Beginning with a colorblocking motif, the collection goes from billowing to sheath in 8 looks. Skirt suits are then explored, with a slight experimentation of the cut of the arm before the collection begins to take the strands it has set up and weave them together blossoming into bright cocktail dresses. After dropping in a few swimwear looks, the collection goes back to a loser fit, examining the suit which appears to be a rain suit that has been put in a bag, had all the air vacuumed out, and then pulled out of the bag, left in it’s wrinkled state.

After addressing chiffon, the collection seems to step into the more ornate. Looks become jeweled even. The ending, a group set, seemed to come out of no where to me, had I not seen the house fly. The print of the group set evokes a tribal feeling to me, and once I began to mull over that my brain begins to step back into the area of the suits and I begin to consider suiting for a safari or rain forest. This makes me revisit the chiffon until I began to consider it as mosquito netting, and thus I have begun to rework the entire collection with my simple musing. But hey, whether I’m right or not… the collection is still stunning.

Gareth Pugh-An Argument for Fashion Film

Video Presentation
Model: Kristen McMenamy
Director: Rugh Hogben
Label: Gareth Pugh
Collection: Spring/Summer 2011(Paris)

To say I’m not looking for my next Alexander McQueen… would be to blatantly lie. I am. I don’t and never did think that Sarah Burton would be able to fill the void that was created by the industry’s loss of him, so the only thing I could think to do was to find a… supplement. Whether it’s “ethically right or wrong” it’s what I decided that I needed to do to cope, to make me understand that I was now not the only person that saw fashion as an art. I wanted to know that true creativity and innovation was still around and kicking and to be entirely honest, with the Gareth Pugh collection I was given that hope.

Is Gareth Pugh Alexander McQueen? NO! He’s not, and he never will be. But in my opinion Gareth is not afraid to go there. Explaining the concept of there would prove cumbersome… and confusing, but Gareth is there. Maybe it’s because he has a background in costume design. That theatre base has instilled in him this knack for creating theatrics which he does… and does well I might add.

Some saw the most important part of this collection not to be in the cut, not to be in the color, not even to be in the styling or aesthetic but instead… the film that was shown. Until this point, while many have tried, few have made a substantial alternative to the fashion show. A fashion show’s effectiveness at showing the movement of a garment while also allowing the designer to procure the correct mood, all in a time efficient manner, is the reason that we haven’t deviated much for the sanctity of the show. Of course there’s also the sanctity of the front row that editors don’t want to give up.

“I really want to present my clothes to a wider audience and in a more freeing and interesting context than a standard fashion show: film enables me to regain total artistic and creative freedom. I feel very strongly that Fashion Film should not be seen as a secondary medium to live catwalk events, but as a modern alternative.”
“There is still a long way for fashion film to go; to be accepted as a medium in it’s own right, and to be given its place within the fashion industry. I think a lot of designers are just beginning to discover and appreciate its real and unique values”

-Gareth Pugh

With this film for his Spring/Summer 2011 collection Pugh may finally have made a lasting case against “the show”. In an interview on SHOWStudio he expressed his distaste for the fashion show and said that he would be interested in finding an alternative. Starring Kristen McMenamy, the film shows the garments in ways that a show never could. Furthermore, it allows for the designer to make sure that everything is perfect and not done in some hectic manner the way that some shows happen to be. The film doesn’t seem to be cheeky or contrived like some videos are and very much creates a mood. It seems that Gareth Pugh has filled his goals while at the same time creating a stunningly strong, smooth, neutral collection that of course has me lusting after each piece.