XO Gallivanting Boy

This is my life. Will it affect yours?

Month: June, 2012

Raf for Jil, now for Raf

There was something in the Raf Simons Spring 2013 collection that looked distinctly Jil.

But not Jil, like Jil is back at Jil, no more of Jil like, Raf for Jil and now that Jil is back at Jil, Raf can do what he did for Jil, for Raf. Get it?

Maybe it was the shirting. Maybe that’s it. You know Jil does have a talent with a crisp white shirt – though she’s not the only one – and Raf did do her justice. And then there was that translucent cover, yes, very Jil. But the collar? The black mini skirt – or is that one of those 70s concoctions.. the skort? Raf, certainly all Raf.

The collection was unfaltering, yet it seemed to be increasingly a continuation of the designer’s work for the label he formerly creatively directed, Jil Sander, than his own brand. The complaints won’t be forthcoming from this corner though: I enjoyed his careful use of color, sporadic yet powerful adding of graphic, and precise – maybe even aggressive – silhouettes. It was actually this, that I was afraid we’d lose with the designer’s move instead it seems that all of it comes now with a stronger hand.

But if this hand is this strong, what about the one that holds the couture?
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Bailey adds a bit of shine to Burberry

It’s going to be a bright summer.

Christopher Bailey decided to make the models shine on the Burberry Prorsum Spring 2013 runway, putting them in metallics that coated everything from their shades, down to their hard soled shoes. The collection followed along the same lines that many of Christopher’s collection have: same cuts, same pieces, new prints and fabrics.

The parkas were there, the tailored trousers, bags, trench coats, suits, and even a sweater.  Cropped bomber jackets came down the runway in a variety of shimmering fabrics – that while not really campy – could have been purposed at giving a nod to this weekend’s Pride festivities. The rainbow could most clearly be glimpsed in the finale walk.

On the whole though, these 80s references don’t push fashion nor the brand; Bailey does just enough to not be labeled as stale but not enough to progress, a state of limbo he’s resided in for more than a few seasons. While the state does appease, one can only wonder how long can he stay there before we all get restless.
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And Jil is back, sorta

Jil Sander is back at her eponymous label Jil Sander, again.

It was with that bit of cynicism, that with a grain of salt approach, that many of us took the now over-60 designer’s return to the catwalk after the somewhat hasty dismissal of one Belgian Raf Simons.  But what do you expect from us? She’s been gone for seven years and he has taken not only the brand but the industry to places and levels that few can: why should we welcome her back with open arms?

But she has returned, and we must deal with it, so deal we have.

For her first collection back Sander seemed to do more than falter. Flipping through the collection one could liken it to a neophyte at an established house, stumbling to find their way. Jil is now a visitor in her own home! She finds herself almost fighting with a house that while familiar, certainly isn’t the way that she left it.

The collection manifests itself in what seems to be a conversation, one where there are two – possibly – three voices, neither one listening to the other. Proportions slim down and are no-nonsense at one point nodding to the former designer who is now sculpting away in the atelier of Christian Dior, preparing for his couture debut, while at others they seem to round, and gain a bit of curvature that I can only peg as a bit feminine. And then there’s the third voice. It’s small, but certainly still there. It’s a bit of a sensible voice, a bit more on the simplistic side than minimal. It’s without a doubt the voice that has developed in Jil’s – the designer – work for the past 3 years. It’s the voice of Uniqlo.

Only time will tell which voice will win out or if a stronger, newer voice will emerge. But for Sander’s sake, I hope that the maturity happens sooner rather than later as there are two other strong voices in menswear to contest with from outside of her own label, and one with a bone to pick.
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Boys Just Wanna Have Fun

I love Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared2 and I love this video that they released featuring their Fall 2012 collection!

If there’s one thing that the twins have never forgotten in fashion, it’s how to have fun.  I don’t think I’ve ever seen a collection from them that was too sober – or too serious, it’s always been uniquely them. A bit dark at times, but more fetish like than Wiccan priestess, but always fun!

This latest video featuring Daphne Groeneveld as well as a cadre of models, male and female alike all strutting in the bejeweled stilettos from the collection, is one I’ve been playing for three days and will probably continue every time I feel like I need a smile. Twirl! Twirl!

Nom nom noms for the weekend

So I’m not going to say this past weekend was the most eventful weekend I’ve had. It basically involved a lot of food and catching up on TV shows since that’s not a luxury I normally can enjoy.

I’ve been house sitting since Thursday and as such haven’t been feeling in the cooking mood – I’ve actually not been in that mood since high school – so for lunch on Friday I went to TakoSushi. Now this would be my second time checking out TakoSushi, the first being a meeting with a friend over at Garnet Life, so I was ready for a bit more of their amazing sushi. As we didn’t go during happy hour I couldn’t get the same deal I’d gotten before but I did get some sort of lunch box deal, pictured above.
A real food writer would at this point tell you the name of what they ordered and expound on ingredients but as I, alas, am just a blogger all I can really remember is that it was really good. I split half of my roll with the friend that I brought along – we both ordered rolls that the waitress recommended as the people’s favorite and the house favorite – and devoured his miso soup. It was a fairly large meal for lunch and caused me to actually almost – keyword being almost – skip dinner.

On Saturday there was Jason’s Deli – I had a hunger for a bit of fruit, and on a whim I decided to pop in for the first time. It was one of my lighter, healthier choices for the weekend which was great and really was only to tide me over until after the Night in Paris Hair Show.

The hair show was interesting. From my understanding it was a show done for charity and was also the first one the group had put on. I got to sit by Eb and Jai who are always great, and my favorite part – I think this was shared by all of us – was the last scene of the show performed to Madonna’s Vogue. If I remember correctly the three stylists who were involved in this part will be doing another, bigger hair show this upcoming Sunday.

Afterwards, Jai and I went to SakiTumi where I grabbed SakiMari – I love it – as well as a Cali roll with eel sauce. All credit goes to Crystal Garrett for the eel sauce tip, since I had it with her at Columbia Style Week, I’ve never looked back.

To New Beginnings

“Get ready, cuz here I come”
denim shirt Heritage 1981, belt Lacoste, pants Blue Gear, bag from Hay Hill Garden Market

It’s official: I’m legal. Thursday was the “big day” except to be brutally honest I did naught but check out Camon’s Sushi downtown, in addition to my regular schedule of class and work. I did consider a Shirley Temple at Speakeasy in Five Points but at the last minute substituted it for a Summer Shake at Sonic.

myself, Candace Romero and Josh Ratliff [Friday Night]
blazer Vintage, shirt vintage Dior, chinos from Urban Thread

Since Friday though I’ve been going non stop. A friend came in to town for Columbia Style Week and invited me to tag along – which by the way, I never have qualms with doing – and so I did.  After the first night in 701 Whaley, and reconnecting with my designer friend Jennifer Ghelardini – who came back from Parsons to show a very young Galliano esque collection – we bopped around the Vista from place to place, finally settling on the Art Bar.  I’ve wanted to go for a long time so once I hit the floor in my white chinos, I was lost in the music for a while.
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